Remember that Edison London Console?

[Brad]

Brad, take a look at this thread http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... f=7&t=2819 If you click on the pictures, it will open a full size image in your browser window (you may have to click the picture again to get the full size depending on how your browser is configured). There may be a good picture further down in the thread.

[estott]

This machine is going to need a lot of time put into it, which is OK, but just don't put too much money into it. Even rebuilt I don't think it will be worth over $200

[antique1973]

Brad, take a look at this thread http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... f=7&t=2819 If you click on the pictures, it will open a full size image in your browser window (you may have to click the picture again to get the full size depending on how your browser is configured). There may be a good picture further down in the thread.

That's great, thanks Brad! You know, I already have a work jig I made today. Its called
a cardboard box. I will have to make some kind of support when I JB weld the
horn back on of course. Good news, the worm gear is working well and I set up a test
with a spare XVI turntable. I played a Bobsie Twins record and held a HMV tone arm to
the record and it plays at a steady 78 RPMs. I figured in case the record was damaged
it would be no great loss.

[antique1973]

This machine is going to need a lot of time put into it, which is OK, but just don't put too much money into it. Even rebuilt I don't think it will be worth over $200

Yeah, this is my sediments exactly. The biggest hurtle is the lack of a diamond stylus.
I am just going to use grill cloths minus the grills also. I can never match the finish
anyways.

[gramophoneshane]

[quote="antique1973] So from what it sounds like, even if I strip and re-stain with dark stain it probably won't look original. I still like
the cabinet though in any case so I may just work with what I have.[/quote]

Actually, it would look more original darker. Below is a picture of a London table model with original finish & cloth, and your console would have been the same colour. The LC38 came in a waxed or varnished finish during production, so if it were mine, I'd stain it the appropriate colour, give it a few coats of shellac to seal the wood, rubbed back with fine steel wool, then followed by a coat of bees wax. That should give it an authentic look & lustre. Most London models I've seen had a plain maroon/dark red silk grille cloth, unlike the patterned cloth below that was used late in production.
I broke away from originality with my L35 and used a grey silk, which looks quite good as it's a nice contrast with the cabinet finsh.

I agree with Eric, and think you'll have to be careful about what you spend on this one. A couple brackets with screws, a stylus, possibly a new horn, the cost of stripping & refinishing the machine, and maybe have to pay someone to cut the fretwork for the grille & door could end up costing the same or more than a completely original working machine.
Still, it's a great project machine as long as you're practical about how far you go with it. Had it been any other type of machine, you could have easily made it a usable machine for less than half the price of the diamond stylus alone.
I'd start with getting the brackets so the motor can be mounted in the cabinet, then try repairing the horn & see how that goes. Unless you've already got a stack of diamond disc records & nothing else to play them on, personally I'd be planning on making it a lateral player, either by getting a lateral adaptor for the existing horn, or by building a new horn & mounting an ordinary tonearm & soundbox. As long as anything you do is reversible, I dont see a problem with that.
I think a lateral adaptor is probably your best option as it would still work if the horn alignment is a little off. You might find another bargain DD machine with cabinet damage, a No.100 horn & good stylus in the future, like an A100 with the legs sawn off, and you could drop the running gear straight into your cabinet, and the adaptor would still be a useful accessory.

[gramophoneshane]

This machine is going to need a lot of time put into it, which is OK, but just don't put too much money into it. Even rebuilt I don't think it will be worth over $200

Yeah, this is my sediments exactly. The biggest hurtle is the lack of a diamond stylus.
I am just going to use grill cloths minus the grills also. I can never match the finish
anyways.

Why not make up a couple grilles yourself? My Black & Decker jigsaw blew up last year after over 30 yrs of use, so I went to our local import chain & bought a nice new "made in China" replacement for $15. I dont expect it to last another 30 yrs, but they're a very handy thing to have if you're into any sort of woodwork restoration. I had my L35 grille cut & fitted in about 10 minutes, and as I was refinishing the whole machine, I didn't have to worry about matching the new grille to the old cabinet. It all just got stained & polished at the same time & is a perfect match.
You probably wouldn't have to go out & buy expensive American mahogany veneered plywood either. There are plenty of plys with a similar grain that would be suitable when it's going to be stained fairly dark. If it's too thin, you just glue two sheets together. Those tea chests people use to pack stuff in when they move are often Philipino mahogany which is a good match, and you'd probably find one at your local tip or dumped on the side of the road lol.

[antique1973]

[quote="antique1973] So from what it sounds like, even if I strip and re-stain with dark stain it probably won't look original. I still like
the cabinet though in any case so I may just work with what I have.

Actually, it would look more original darker. Below is a picture of a London table model with original finish & cloth, and your console would have been the same colour. The LC38 came in a waxed or varnished finish during production, so if it were mine, I'd stain it the appropriate colour, give it a few coats of shellac to seal the wood, rubbed back with fine steel wool, then followed by a coat of bees wax. That should give it an authentic look & lustre. Most London models I've seen had a plain maroon/dark red silk grille cloth, unlike the patterned cloth below that was used late in production.
I broke away from originality with my L35 and used a grey silk, which looks quite good as it's a nice contrast with the cabinet finsh.

I agree with Eric, and think you'll have to be careful about what you spend on this one. A couple brackets with screws, a stylus, possibly a new horn, the cost of stripping & refinishing the machine, and maybe have to pay someone to cut the fretwork for the grille & door could end up costing the same or more than a completely original working machine.
Still, it's a great project machine as long as you're practical about how far you go with it. Had it been any other type of machine, you could have easily made it a usable machine for less than half the price of the diamond stylus alone.
I'd start with getting the brackets so the motor can be mounted in the cabinet, then try repairing the horn & see how that goes. Unless you've already got a stack of diamond disc records & nothing else to play them on, personally I'd be planning on making it a lateral player, either by getting a lateral adaptor for the existing horn, or by building a new horn & mounting an ordinary tonearm & soundbox. As long as anything you do is reversible, I dont see a problem with that.
I think a lateral adaptor is probably your best option as it would still work if the horn alignment is a little off. You might find another bargain DD machine with cabinet damage, a No.100 horn & good stylus in the future, like an A100 with the legs sawn off, and you could drop the running gear straight into your cabinet, and the adaptor would still be a useful accessory.[/quote][/quote]


I actually have no diamond discs either at the moment and they appear to be costly. I lucked out on my Amberola deal since it happened to come with over 100 cylinders and that way I was able to diversify into cylinders without a huge expense. As much as I would like to bring it to an original state, I am now thinking I should put the Edison
motor on ice until I can run across a nicer upright that has a "shot" or missing motor, etc. I have several spare tone arms and that electric flyer motor so I can still utilize the cabinet for an electric frankenphone. This is likely the most cost effective way to proceed and still gain functionality from the cabinet.