Tinkerbell wrote:... although first I will be trying my hands (but hopefully not my patience)at my inaugural reproducer rebuild project. (Fortunately the instructions are clearly spelled out both in the Eric Reiss book and online.)
Tinkerbell wrote:Thank you, everyone, for your insights. I think I will try a few different needles and see which will best serve my purposes... although first I will be trying my hands (but hopefully not my patience)at my inaugural reproducer rebuild project. (Fortunately the instructions are clearly spelled out both in the Eric Reiss book and online.)
The hardest part for me on No. 2 reproducers (assuming thats what you have) is getting those little black screws out in one piece. If you can get those out without tearing them up (try liquid wrench and soak for a day or so) than that is 99 percent of the battle.
You need to use a VERY fine (thin) screwdriver. Like the ones that you get in a jeweler's set, and it's the smallest one.
Saving America's Acoustical History, One Phonograph At A Time...
Tinkerbell wrote:Thank you, everyone, for your insights. I think I will try a few different needles and see which will best serve my purposes... although first I will be trying my hands (but hopefully not my patience)at my inaugural reproducer rebuild project. (Fortunately the instructions are clearly spelled out both in the Eric Reiss book and online.)
The hardest part for me on No. 2 reproducers (assuming thats what you have) is getting those little black screws out in one piece. If you can get those out without tearing them up (try liquid wrench and soak for a day or so) than that is 99 percent of the battle.
This one is the Exhibition; thanks for the tip about soaking the screws. I have a full compliment of jewelers screwdrivers that I've used for my various little electronic jailbreaking projects, so hopefully I'm set there. We'll see how it the rest of it goes...
Some have reported success removing screws after placing the sound box in the freezer for a couple of hours; different rates of contraction between the metal of the screws and that of the sound box body may free up the tight screws. it's worth a try, and somewhat less messy than oil.
Make sure the screwdriver you use is an accurate fit in the slot and no wider than the slot. You also will likely need something with a better handgrip than you get with jewelers screwdrivers. Often it requires more torque than you can get with jewelers screwdrivers. Sears has a line of small Craftsman screwdrivers that work well. Take the reproducer to the store with you and select the screwdriver that is the best fit.
I order most parts from Ron Sitko. He doesn't have a website but sells high quality parts at very reasonable prices. His current phone number is (I think) 518-371-8549. He has any part you can name for an Exhibition or #2 including new rubber isolators.
As far as needles, my preference is for original Victor steel halftones, but they are hard to find and expensive. I have been using needles from APSCO for many years and have had good results with them. Recently, I have experimented with grinding a "waist" in the needle shank (similar to the way a Tungstone shank is formed). It does change the tonal characteristics in a similar way, and I like the results. If anyone is interested, I can post more info on this.