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A late carriage like that has an screw in the back. That makes it independent from the part that moves on the carriage rod. I think I would:

1- Loosen that screw so the carriage moves on the tube.
2- Adjust the little half nut adjustment screw so it can be adjusted either up or down. (kind of a neutral position)
3- Place a piece of paper under the carriage where it makes contact with the casting.
4- With the casting still loose on the tube, lower the carriage down to the paper shim.
5- Gently place a finger on the half nut bar and move it down so it contacts the feed nut.
6- Tighten the screw on the back of the carriage to lock it in place with the part that slides on the carriage rod.

7- This should put you in ballpark for correct position.
8- Try playing a cylinder.
9- If it bogs down, turn the half nut adjusting screw slightly counter clockwise. (remember, very small adjustments)
10- If the carriage doesn't move, turn the half nut adjusting screw slightly clockwise. (same reminder)

Group, did I miss anything?

Jerry B.

Jerry B. wrote:...Group, did I miss anything?

Jerry B.

Would a few words about the directionality of the half nut be in order?

On the half nut the long part to the back, short part to the front. For a Blue Amberol record, which is a four minute record, the pointer on the feed screw switch should be on four. Never play any metallic soap record, such as a Edison Gold Moulded, Brown wax, or Columbia black wax cylinder, or black Metallic Soap Amberol with this reproducer, it will score and ruin it, in a matter of seconds, using with the diamond B, which is the reproducer on your machine. You would need an adapter and a model C reproducer for two minute cylinders. Cylinders previous to 1908 are two minute, or 100 threads per inch. After 1908, and a new four minute format emerged, that is four minute or 200 threads per inch. The two minute stylus is about 36 thousandths in diameter, while a four minute stylus is 19 thousandths.
Also the weight on the reproducer should move freely in a circle, in the confines of the limit loop,the weight must be able to move right and left as well as up and down, otherwise damage to the expensive stylus may result ($100.00-$200.00, for a new stylus). A home does not have a cinch screw on the back like a triumph, most likely it needs a new half nut, they less than 10.00 and everyone needs a few around for Home and Triumph machines, it seems Standards don't wear as bad, as the feedscrew is deeper, and so is the half nut, than a Home or Triumph.

Curt A wrote:The video does not help, since it is zoomed in to only a small area and your finger is in the way... Pictures would help if you can take several of the entire machine, the suspected problem area (the feedscrew) and any others from all angles... I captured two from your video, but they still don't shed light on the problem.

Also, in the top photo, the shift lever is set to the 2 minute position; for 4 minute cylinders, it should be moved to the left.

-Bill

Thank you everyone! I really appreciate the input! I will take some pictures and post them here. But it does seem like the feed screw speed is one of the issues. I do have a feeling that the speed switch mechanism isn't working properly, so that may need fixing. I'll make sure to get a photo of that as well.

edisonphonoworks wrote:... Never play any metallic soap record, such as a Edison Gold Moulded, Brown wax, or Columbia black wax cylinder, or black Metallic Soap Amberol with this reproducer, it will score and ruin it, in a matter of seconds, using with the diamond B, which is the reproducer on your machine. You would need an adapter and a model C reproducer for two minute cylinders. ...

Another, albeit expensive, option would be to buy a Model O reproducer. It was designed for your type of carrier (no adapter needed) and features a flip-over stylus selector design with styli for both 2-minute and 4-minute cylinders, clearly marked. Hence, it makes switching between 2- and 4-minute records easy as pie (no need to disconnect the horn, remove one reproducer, mount another, and then replace the horn) and, with minimal attention, avoids "oops, got the wrong reproducer" problems. The Model O will play all cylinders after the very soft brown wax ones, including those fragile 4 minute wax Amberols. It comes in two flavors, one with a round-shaped floating weight and one with a trowel-shaped weight; the latter, which is a bit lighter, was introduced when the original former design proved, or at least became perceived as, a tad too heavy for wax cylinders. Not wishing to take any chances, I bought one with the trowel-shaped weight, and I'd recommend doing so to anyone else looking for a Model O.

As noted, the Model O is pricey, much more so than a common Model C two-minute or model H four-minute reproducer, but for the reasons above I consider the money it costs to be well spent if you intend to play many cylinders of mixed type. Alas, the Model O often has pot metal issues, so if looking for one you'll need to exercise caution there.

Once again, I would like to point out that I'm 99.99% sure that the right end of the feed screw needs to be retained by the small L shaped clip. The clip fits into the groove that is cut into the feed screw itself. It stops the feed screw from shifting when the 2/4 switch is used and allows the gearing in the left hand side to engage and cut the feedscrew rotation in half.

Once again, I would like to point out that I'm 99.99% sure that the right end of the feed screw needs to be retained by the small L shaped clip. The clip fits into the groove that is cut into the feed screw itself. It stops the feed screw from shifting when the 2/4 switch is used and allows the gearing in the left hand side to engage and cut the feedscrew rotation in half.

Good observation. It looks like the little "L" piece is there but not in the grove. Maybe it's bent a little.

Jerry

Jerry B. wrote:

Once again, I would like to point out that I'm 99.99% sure that the right end of the feed screw needs to be retained by the small L shaped clip. The clip fits into the groove that is cut into the feed screw itself. It stops the feed screw from shifting when the 2/4 switch is used and allows the gearing in the left hand side to engage and cut the feedscrew rotation in half.

Good observation. It looks like the little "L" piece is there but not in the grove. Maybe it's bent a little.

Jerry

It could be bent - I hope it isn't as it is very short, very small and would be hard to straighten. Might even be case hardened. It has to be at a rigid right angle. But I have a suspicion that at one time the mechanism was put back together not knowing how it was supposed to go. If it isn't bent, removing the very small fixing screw and the L , sliding the feed screw to the right and putting the L back on will correct it. Everything else being equal.

Jerry B. wrote:

Once again, I would like to point out that I'm 99.99% sure that the right end of the feed screw needs to be retained by the small L shaped clip. The clip fits into the groove that is cut into the feed screw itself. It stops the feed screw from shifting when the 2/4 switch is used and allows the gearing in the left hand side to engage and cut the feedscrew rotation in half.

Good observation. It looks like the little "L" piece is there but not in the grove. Maybe it's bent a little.

Jerry

It could be bent - I hope it isn't as it is very short, very small and would be hard to straighten. Might even be case hardened. It has to be at a rigid right angle. But I have a suspicion that at one time the mechanism was put back together not knowing how it was supposed to go. If it isn't bent, removing the very small fixing screw and the L , sliding the feed screw to the right and putting the L back on will correct it. Everything else being equal.