The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I don't think you have much work to do to restore. Just go thru the motor and mechanism and clean & relube, have the reproducer rebuilt & new diamond (if it needs it), and just a clean and polish of the cabinet. That is a nice looking oak cabinet.

Herderz wrote: This project should keep me busy for the next few months on it cleaning and restoration.

Frankly, it should take you minutes, not months. That's so clean I doubt I would do anything to it but dust it and oil the motor. I don't even see any reason to Goop it. You may want to check the speed with strobe discs or perhaps a non-contact tachometer, but otherwise, it looks pretty amazing as it is. Congrats!

Curt A, Wes K and 52089, the pics make it look shinier because of the distance away and lighting, if you get within a few inches you can see the crazing all over cabinet. I will break down the motor and clean and inspect the gear train. Probably rebuild the reproducers also. 52089 can you explain "Goop it". I have a process that I have used for years on antique clocks but am interested in what you guys do.

Herderz wrote:Curt A, Wes K and 52089, the pics make it look shinier because of the distance away and lighting, if you get within a few inches you can see the crazing all over cabinet. I will break down the motor and clean and inspect the gear train. Probably rebuild the reproducers also. 52089 can you explain "Goop it". I have a process that I have used for years on antique clocks but am interested in what you guys do.

Non-pumice Goop hand cleaner (or the similar non-pumice GoJo hand cleaner) is used in the phonograph hobby for cleaning cabinets without altering the original finish. It's essentially thick hand soap. You wipe it on, let it sit a bit, and wipe it off. Some people apply it with 0000 steel wool, but I use paper towels. It can make the finish feel slightly tacky for a bit, so if you want to clean the cabinet more than once, it's best to wait a few days between applications.

Goop is available in many places, including Harbor Freight.

You can search the board for more cleaning info including other recommendations like Kotton Klenser and Nu-life Furniture Masque.

Herderz wrote:Curt A, Wes K and 52089, the pics make it look shinier because of the distance away and lighting, if you get within a few inches you can see the crazing all over cabinet. I will break down the motor and clean and inspect the gear train. Probably rebuild the reproducers also. 52089 can you explain "Goop it". I have a process that I have used for years on antique clocks but am interested in what you guys do.

I have used GOOP on many of my projects. It's really an amazing soap Just make sure you get the one WITHOUT the pumice I have also used GOJO, and purple power (the handsoap) with good results.

You got an excellent machine! Like others have said, I would just dust/clean the cabinet, oil/clean the motor, rebuild the reproducers and enjoy!

David

"Curt A, Wes K and 52089, the pics make it look shinier because of the distance away and lighting, if you get within a few inches you can see the crazing all over cabinet. I will break down the motor and clean and inspect the gear train. Probably rebuild the reproducers also. 52089 can you explain "Goop it". I have a process that I have used for years on antique clocks but am interested in what you guys do."

ABSOLUTELY, DO NOT MESS WITH THAT FINISH!!! It is a beautiful, original survivor... don't polish away the crazing... it's perfect the way it is.

You have demonstrated some excellent skills in your first restoration. For this one, an approach of "less may be more" is where I would begin.

To answer one of your earlier questions, yes, the reproducer is gold plated. Some ofthe gold has worn away, showing the brass underneath. Happy you got it!

Thanks Jerry Van and Curt A. As I said earlier the finish is very clean but it has very slight oxidation that can only be seen at an angle. A slight cloudy look not seen looking straight on. I would never polish down the crazing might as well strip it if I did that. The oxidation can be felt if you rub your hand over the finish, feels like a very very fine sandpaper. The oxidation catches lint and dust and makes it feel this way. This machine will only take slight cleaning to remove the lint and dust and oxidation that is catching it. Unlike my first machine which had dirt and suit over the finish it took more work. You can see the clouding and lint (little white lines are lint) etc. These pics are taken of the sides. In this pics of the lid which has less buildup the crazing looks cleaner and less oxidation because it was probably wiped more frequently.

Thanks dzavracky on the Goop tip. It might be a little faster than my process.

My first step will be to coat the cabinet in bee's was for about a week then rub or buff it off to see the true starting point of the finish.