The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

PROGRESS UPDATE:

I found a 1/16" (1.5875 mm) thick rubber packing sheet at the local hardware. I cut a piece to fit the opening of the reproducer. Since I've never saw what this originally looked like I am posting some pics to show my results. Do they look correct? Should the reproducer fit tightly to the arm? This connection is tight. Also, what is the correct angle to mount the reproducer to the arm? Does the needle lower to the record surface at an angle?

Also, I am still working the pivot joint where the arm connects to the suitcase cabinet. But after a couple of days of this it seems that I may have to disassemble the connection to sand the high spots off the arm.

Again, thank you to all of you who have offered suggestions and solutions! I will keep you updated as this project progresses.

Randy

It should be a snug fit.

Maybe two superimposed strips of that same rubber (with the joints in opposite directions) would work. If it is too snug, you can wet the inner part just before installing it in the tonearm, and press while you twist the soundbox, etc. But be careful, of the pressure is too large, the pot metal neck of the soundbox might break, although it seems thick and robust.
The needle must fall on the record at an angle of, say, between 55 and 65 degrees. If you don't screw the soundbox neck set screw and let it loose, you have the advantage of being able to adjust the needle angle until you get a good tracking on the record (the diaphragm plane being tangent to the grooves at the needle point intersection with the groove).
If two sheets of rubber is too thick, you can use one sheet of rubber (as in the photo) and supplement with strips of newspaper rolled around the tonearm until you get a tight joint. Still the rubber will make it flexible, and the paper strips will make it airtight. Then you carefully tear off the surplus paper so it isn't too obvious when you have inserted fully the soundbox in its place. I sometimes use this trick and it works fine.
One last thing: try a slightly longer rubber strip, the one you're using leaves an ugly gap between the two ends, and you want the connection as airtight as possible. A longer strip, even if you have to force it to enter in the soundbox neck is better, with the two ends pressed together making a tight seal.

PROGRESS UPDATE 2:

Thank you to all that offered solutions for correctly fitting and mounting the reproducer to the tonearm. I can now move on to the tonearm pivot where it mounts to the suitcase. After a few hours of trying to loosen the connection I decided it would need disassembled and sanded. I removed the staples then carefully using a razor blade scrapper and a putty knife I removed the cardboard horn from the base which made it possible to get to the concealed rivets. Using a small straight blade screwdriver and a pair of needle nose pliers I worked the ends straight and removed the rivets freeing the tonearm and collar. After removing the retaining ring I applied WD-40 to the joint and slowly and carefully began working the mount off of the tonearm. This connection was very tight so it took a few hours. I applied the WD-40 and let it set for a half hour or so and then worked the arm around and around while pulling the collar off of the arm. Finally, after several attempts the arm came free of the collar. I can now sand the swollen arm to better fit the collar. NOTE: I had originally thought that the collar was plastic or bakelite but it is metal.

I have some questions going forward:

What would be the best way to remove the old glue from the cardboard horn and the suitcase base?

It has been suggested to use white glue to reattach the horn to the base. Is this the correct glue for this?

Now that the tonearm is disassembled what is the best lubricant to use when I reassemble it? I am planning on reusing the original rivets so this is not going to be easy to get to to re-grease if needed.

Any other suggestions or comments are appreciated. I have included some pics to help illustrate this project.

Thanks,

Randy

I would use some small brass slotted machine screws with nuts on the back instead of the rivets and then paint them black with nail polish or something.

Removing glue: See if it comes off with a small scraper blade.

New glue: Wood glue or white glue should work. It's basically cardboard to cardboard.

Lubricant for the tonearm--Try wheel bearing grease, lithium grease, or whatever you can get a hold of. The main thing it needs to be is non-hardening. Sta-Lube makes a lithium white grease that may do the trick. I personally use red axle grease on tonearms.

The glue on the horn edge seems hide glue. If it is so, hearing it with a hairdryer will revive it.
About the tonearm bearing, I also vote for a thick creamy grease, which will help making the joints airtight.

Thank you to all that have helped me with the tonearm and reproducer repair on this phonograph. I did not reuse the rivets but instead replaced them with 8-32x1/2" stainless steel machine screws. I used white glue to reattach the horn. I attached some pics to illustrate this and here is a link to a short clip I posted to youtube of the finished product. The record is one that has a piece missing from the edge and I have been using to experiment with during this restore.

https://youtu.be/3-k54JsqmZo

I have spent some time searching through the archives on this listserve. There is so much good information here. What I am particularly interested in is the discussions of which records are safe to play on this suitcase phonograph. I have read some posts that say no recordings that are electrically recorded after 1925 of 1926 should be played on acoustic machines. Others say they successfully play recordings from the 1940s on their machines with the correct reproducers and needles. I would like to hear any opinions of whether this phonograph and reproducer could be used to play the 1940's 10 inch recordings.

Thanks in advance!

Randy

Looks as if you've done some nice work.

As to records, your phonograph was made sometime in the 40's, so it would make sense that records of the 40's were meant to be played on it. Basically, play any record that doesn't "blast" and make distortion in the reproducer. (You can try soft tone needles to help alleviate this.) Also, play any record that isn't damaged while playing. Look closely at the grooves that have been played. If you see any change of appearance in the grooves, such as dulling, stop and choose a different record. Yes, at that point, some damage has been done already, but it will be a lesson learned and soon you'll have some intuition as to what records will work best. Change the needle with each playing.

It kind of sounds as if your reproducer could do with adjustment and probably new gaskets.

JerryVan wrote: Mon Dec 27, 2021 11:24 am Looks as if you've done some nice work.

As to records, your phonograph was made sometime in the 40's, so it would make sense that records of the 40's were meant to be played on it. Basically, play any record that doesn't "blast" and make distortion in the reproducer. (You can try soft tone needles to help alleviate this.) Also, play any record that isn't damaged while playing. Look closely at the grooves that have been played. If you see any change of appearance in the grooves, such as dulling, stop and choose a different record. Yes, at that point, some damage has been done already, but it will be a lesson learned and soon you'll have some intuition as to what records will work best. Change the needle with each playing.

It kind of sounds as if your reproducer could do with adjustment and probably new gaskets.

I generally agree with Jerry: acoustic portables were made well into the '50s. I wouldn't play any particularly rare late 78s on it (such as there are); but a soft tone needle, or even a fiber needle, would help reduce any wear.

- Bill

Very good.
It will also benefit from:
A) filling with grease the junction between the two tonearm halves. In your first short video, it seemed a bit loose, and not airtight. Air leaks in the sound path kill the bass in the sound.
B) Sealing the small gap in the rubber joint you have installed in the back of the soundbox.