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This is all good advice. I can't add much to it but I want to emphasize the importance of isolating the problem area to either the motor or the upper works then concentrating on that particular area. You basically have two separate mechanical units involved (upper works and motor) and you can have problems with either one or both.
As stated above, the upper works should turn freely and easily with no binding or rough spots. In addition to the mandrel support bushing, check for end play in the mandrel shaft, feed screw and the gear train. Each shaft or gear should have a slight amount of end play so that it doesn't bind but not so much that it runs sloppily. This is especially true of the mandrel shaft and feed screw, both of which have endplay edjustments. Grease or dirt impacted in the gear teeth can also cause binding. Even after a soak in cleaner you may need to finish cleaning the gears by hand. I usually use a toothpick to scrape out the gunk. Note: these comments apply equally to the motor as well as the top works.
As far as the lateral alignment of the governor, you can probably tell its original position by looking at the gears. If it is positioned where it originally was and runs quietly, I would leave it there. Sometimes, however, if the governor gears are noisy you can reposition the shaft to eliminate much of the noise.

Good luck,

Jim

Ok, I moved the governor so the gears are square. It has loads of power now
and starts up by itself when the brake is released. Still having the distinctive
"warbling" sounds when playing both 2 and 4 min. cylinders. The mandrel spins freely when I took the belt off and spun it by hand. The belt tension roller seems to have nothing to do with it since I played a cylinder and moved the roller off the belt with no change in sound quality. I did not disassemble the gears but I have sprayed them with WD-40 and cleaned the teeth with a toothbrush. After doing this I lightly oiled
the gears. Not sure what the problem is, should I try swapping the weights around
on the governor? Generally governor problems are pretty obvious and this one looks "mint" and appears to be functioning as it should. I attached pics of before I moved the governor, and after, and a closeup of the governor itself. I also made a video playing part of a cylinder. Thanks again for all the help!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SOA0MHWBMk[/youtube]

I'd recommend removing the governor weights to make sure they're properly installed. The hole on one end of the governor spring is round, but on the other end it's oblong. If one or more of these weights/spring was installed backward, it will cause that warbling. The screws on your governor show signs of having been removed, and it's possible that it wasn't reassembled properly. Good luck!

George P.

Thanks for the tips George and everyone. It seems the governor springs are in the right direction so I will try cleaning all the gears thoroughly and see if that does the trick.

If I have the governor out of the motor, I'll loosen the screws on the oblong end of the individual springs, then I'll squeeze the governor so the weights start to go out as if it's running and I'll tighten the screws. It's an attempt for each spring to carry the same amount of the load. Does anyone have a better idea?

Jerry B. wrote:If I have the governor out of the motor, I'll loosen the screws on the oblong end of the individual springs, then I'll squeeze the governor so the weights start to go out as if it's running and I'll tighten the screws. It's an attempt for each spring to carry the same amount of the load. Does anyone have a better idea?

That's pretty much it. It's important to make sure all 3 weights are spinning in the same circumference (if you know what I mean)[orbit?]. If one is coming further out or closer inward from the shaft than the others while spinning, it throws the governor out of balance, which sets a vibration that is transfered through the whole motor & into the reproducer- causing the warble.
I check them with the very tip of my finger while they're spinning. Move your fingertip toward the governor weights slowly until you can just feel the weight strike it. If they are balanced properly, you should feel all the weights hit your fingertip with the same amount of pressure. If one weight is missing your finger or hitting it harder, then that's the weight that needs to be adjusted.
* Dont just go poking your finger in the governor though, unless you want to damage your finger, the machine or both
You could probably do a similar test using a piece of cardboard or a tooth pick, but I like to be able the feel what's going on directly through my fingertip.

gramophoneshane wrote:

Jerry B. wrote:If I have the governor out of the motor, I'll loosen the screws on the oblong end of the individual springs, then I'll squeeze the governor so the weights start to go out as if it's running and I'll tighten the screws. It's an attempt for each spring to carry the same amount of the load. Does anyone have a better idea?

That's pretty much it. It's important to make sure all 3 weights are spinning in the same circumference (if you know what I mean)[orbit?]. If one is coming further out or closer inward from the shaft than the others while spinning, it throws the governor out of balance, which sets a vibration that is transfered through the whole motor & into the reproducer- causing the warble.
I check them with the very tip of my finger while they're spinning. Move your fingertip toward the governor weights slowly until you can just feel the weight strike it. If they are balanced properly, you should feel all the weights hit your fingertip with the same amount of pressure. If one weight is missing your finger or hitting it harder, then that's the weight that needs to be adjusted.
* Dont just go poking your finger in the governor though, unless you want to damage your finger, the machine or both
You could probably do a similar test using a piece of cardboard or a tooth pick, but I like to be able the feel what's going on directly through my fingertip.

Thanks Jerry and Shane, I will give these techniques a try tonight.

There was a technique of balancing the governor weights that I ran across in my Diamond Disc manual. Essentially, you very slightly loosen the spring screws and then let it spin itself into balance. Then you carefully tighten everything down. I've done it a few times and seems to work pretty well. It's a bit nerve wracking in that the potential for disaster is enormous if one of those screws flies off.

My guess is one of the pins on your governor may be bent. Hold the two sleeve bearings and the governor between your index finger and thumb and spin the governor. If it doesn't spin freely, one or both pins are bent. If it spins freely, you can rule that out.

Well I tried further tactics and found some improvement although its still not 100%. Considering I need to find a motor for my banner case model B, I thought it best to sell this model D motor to help fund that goal. In any case its been a great learning
experience and this thread will continue to serve as an excellent reference for troubleshooting Standard models in the future. Thanks to everyone for your contributions and assistance.