The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

LimeTree99 wrote: Mon Feb 05, 2024 1:02 pm

JerryVan wrote: Mon Feb 05, 2024 12:42 pm

bkasindorf wrote: Mon Feb 05, 2024 11:02 am What we did was get a variac and bypass the resistor pack and run 32 to 40VAC right to the motor and see how it behaves. Get a current meter variac so you can look at the load.
The brushes wear in for the first hour or so of running with new ones so things change. See if the current is constant. If not the governor may have issues or bad grease on the moror bearings.

I used to run my VE-XVIII with a Variac until I located a resistor unit. They work great.

Not sure if it's already been mentioned, but these motors tend to collect oil on the commutator & brushes. The oil mixes with carbon dust from the brushes and creates a semi-conductive goo that leads to poor commutation. Be sure the commutator and brushes are cleaned of any oil or the black sludge that it creates. Also, be sure that the brushes can slide freely in the brush holders. Any resistance to slide freely will affect brush contact with the commutator and therefore motor performance.

When the motor runs, do you notice any arcing or sparks between the brushes and commutator? A tiny bit is acceptable. Anything more than that indicates an issue.

I've decided I'm just going to take the motor to a local repair shop and get it re-wound. If anything is seriously wrong with it, a professional would know what to look for.

Sounds like a good plan. Maybe just ask them to check it out before requesting a rewind. It might save you a lot of money.

Just a quick update. It wasn't the motor, or the AC current causing issues, instead, it was part of the shutoff mechanism. Basically the last thing I would've guessed.

This Electrola model has a "timed shutoff" ratchet & pawl assembly that's driven by the rotation of the spindle via worm gears on a drive shaft. This ratchet wheel was binding on some corrosion, (especially every half rotation), which seized up the spindle, forcing the motor to work harder.

I only discovered this once I had completely torn everything apart, and was able to turn the ratchet by hand. After lubricating and cleaning that part, I plugged it back in and flipped the switch. Because I had the control knob turned all the way up in order to squeeze out 78rpm, the needle immediately flew past 78, and almost touched the upper end of the speed indicator. This was Friday last week, and it's been running the same since without so much as a hiccup *knock on wood*.

Great news! Thanks for the update!