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When I had my vv-210 (just sold it yesterday) I preferred to use a #4 on it vs. a #2. I had restored both using the usual rebuild gaskets - those flat red ones on the #2, standard white tubular gasket on the #4. The #2 had like a resonance (?) on certain mid-range notes. I.e. I'd knew a certain note was coming up over and over in a song, and it would have that unnatural sound when it hit. Is that what you mean by 'blasting'? Anyway I have another machine with a #2 at my mom's house. Sure would like to try some thinner gaskets when available, since I LOVE tinkering with soundboxes like Victor Orthophonics. By cutting the gaskets, do you mean cutting them out of a sheet of material that is already the desired thickness? Thanks

I believe "blasting" can be described as being loud & heavily distorted. Kind of like when a speaker cone can't handle the volume put through it and simply "blasts" distortion/noise.

"Blasting" is a raucous noise that is pretty unmusical coming out of your phonograph. It is caused by the needle mistracking and rattling around in the groove. This is usually the result of a poorly controlled mechanical resonance in the reproducer which is usually the result of loose bearings or insufficient compliance in the diaphragm caused by hard gaskets in the pre-orthophonic models. Some replacement diaphragms are poorly designed such that they have poorly damped resonances or they are simply too stiff. Blasting can also be caused by using a loud needle when playing a loud electrical record with an improper reproducer. Or from insufficient tracking force. Softtone steel needles are much less likely to blast than loud ones. In addition to sounding bad, blasting should be avoided because the needle or stylus that's rattling around in the groove is gouging the groove and wearing it abnormally. Bad for your records.

Is there a video showing how to fine tune adjust the springs on the needle arm? I rebuilt my No. 2 and although it seems to perform well, the needle is angled slightly. In other words, if you look at the reproducer from the edge side, the needle does not point out straight. That was the only way I could get the tension right on the diaphragm. Had to crank the one screw way in.
I'm guessing I may have to melt the wax, take it apart again and reset it?

Kryptosmaster wrote:Is there a video showing how to fine tune adjust the springs on the needle arm? I rebuilt my No. 2 and although it seems to perform well, the needle is angled slightly. In other words, if you look at the reproducer from the edge side, the needle does not point out straight. That was the only way I could get the tension right on the diaphragm. Had to crank the one screw way in.
I'm guessing I may have to melt the wax, take it apart again and reset it?

I wonder if one of your balance spring screws is shorter than the other. Make sure the two screws are the same length, also see if a spring might be bent. I guess your needle bar could be bent also.

Here is how a Vic #2 should look, just enough tension to hold it in place but not constrict lateral movement - the screws are equally tight.

Player-Tone wrote:

Kryptosmaster wrote:Is there a video showing how to fine tune adjust the springs on the needle arm? I rebuilt my No. 2 and although it seems to perform well, the needle is angled slightly. In other words, if you look at the reproducer from the edge side, the needle does not point out straight. That was the only way I could get the tension right on the diaphragm. Had to crank the one screw way in.
I'm guessing I may have to melt the wax, take it apart again and reset it?

I wonder if one of your balance spring screws is shorter than the other. Make sure the two screws are the same length, also see if a spring might be bent. I guess your needle bar could be bent also.

Here is how a Vic #2 should look, just enough tension to hold it in place but not constrict lateral movement - the screws are equally tight.

Hmm. Well I bought new springs when I got all the parts for the rebuild. One of the originals was broken. Not sure how to tell if the arm is bent. Doesn't look damaged to me but have nothing to compare it to. Had to assemble the case and squish the new gaskets before I could even set the bar close to the mica. I'll post a pic later on.

I had a case like that where the needle always sat at an angle and it turned out that there was a small remnant of a broken needle stuck and rusted in the needle hole. Someone on this forum suggested this and I was able to scrape out the needle hole. Now the needle goes in straight.
Good luck
Andreas

The best advice an advance collector can give people that wish to rebuilt their Victor reproducers is to buy a copy of "Look For The Dog". In the back there is step by step instructions on the Exhibition,Victrola #2 and Orthophonic reproducer's.
If you are not certain and wish to obtain the best sound out of your reproducer......there are a "few" guys out there that offer this service.
Many collectors seem to forget a very important fact in sound reproduction......the sound quality (regardless of rebuilt) will only sound as good as the record in play.
I have records that are "NOS" and even so.....sound terrible. In other words...."you can't make a silk purse from a Sows ear".....

alang wrote:I had a case like that where the needle always sat at an angle and it turned out that there was a small remnant of a broken needle stuck and rusted in the needle hole. Someone on this forum suggested this and I was able to scrape out the needle hole. Now the needle goes in straight.
Good luck
Andreas

It's not actually the needle, it's the whole part that holds the needle. Here's some pics. You can see I had to,crank the screw in on the mica side in order to get it to touch.
Now I think if I have to readjust that, I'll need to take the waxed screw out, right? Might damage the mica if I loosen the springs and try to straighten it?

Kryptosmaster wrote:

alang wrote:I had a case like that where the needle always sat at an angle and it turned out that there was a small remnant of a broken needle stuck and rusted in the needle hole. Someone on this forum suggested this and I was able to scrape out the needle hole. Now the needle goes in straight.
Good luck
Andreas

It's not actually the needle, it's the whole part that holds the needle. Here's some pics. You can see I had to,crank the screw in on the mica side in order to get it to touch.
Now I think if I have to readjust that, I'll need to take the waxed screw out, right? Might damage the mica if I loosen the springs and try to straighten it?

Not only does your needle bar look bent (pushed inward) but...you have the wrong needle screw on this #2. The bent bar is causing your problem.