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Re: Columbia Graphophone Type N in the wild

Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2025 11:12 am
by TinfoilPhono
Can I determine date from serial number?
Since these were introduced in 1895, and supplanted by the Type A in late 1896, the date range is very narrow. It's highly improbable that they were produced any later. Columbia manufactured an excess of both motors and topworks for the N. They liquidated some of the leftover motors in 1897 by mating them to the new Type A topworks and designating the hybrid as Type AN. Priced at the same level as the previous N ($40), the AN was not a big seller since the Type A could be had for $25. The leftover topworks remained in inventory until 1901, when they liquidated at least some of them as Thornwards. This indicates that Columbia was not continuing to produce and market Type Ns after the introduction of the A.

The serial number block presumably started at 40,000. The lowest I have on file is 40064. The highest I have is 46051, excluding Thornwards, which had their own serial number block in the 47,000 range (only about 500 produced). So your serial number is in the lower range of the number block, most likely dating it to 1895. There are no records to definitively date Columbias by serial number, but given the limited production of the Type N it's safe to say yours is early.

Re: Columbia Graphophone Type N in the wild

Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2025 1:38 pm
by JohnM
ChuckA wrote: Sat Feb 22, 2025 9:27 am Nice Model N even better at $55. It looks like you have a #4 reproducer from a Grand model (AG, HG) machine not a #2.

Cleaning it up is up to you although you'll be getting all kinds of tips on the "best" way to clean it. Any of the short drop off type cranks will work, the original
N crank has a straight winding arm, no curve.

Don't use sewing machine oil. Synthetic or gun oil has been my choice.

Can't see the condition of the leather insert on the governor drive gear, make sure it's in good shape not missing teeth or worn down. If it's bad you can, as a temp fix, slide the gear over to catch the brass edge, a little nosier but but safer than using the bad leather area.

Chuck
While gun oil is highly-refined, it’s also rather thin since it’s designed for sliding parts. Sewing machine oil is heavier and designed for rapidly spinning parts. It’s the better choice.