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Retrograde wrote:Alang, check your dimensions. The radius and diameter on the diagram seem large.

I think some, but not all of the dimensions on the diagram are actually cm, not ".

AZ* wrote:

Retrograde wrote:Alang, check your dimensions. The radius and diameter on the diagram seem large.

I think some, but not all of the dimensions on the diagram are actually cm, not ".

Ooohps sorry. Yes, that's exactly what happened. I used a tape measure with both cm and inch and mixed up sides reading. Still don't have a feeling for inches etc, I grew up in Europe all metric.
The drawing is correct now. Thanks for pointing that out.
Andreas

will try to dig out the camera and snap some pictures of the rubber bits tomorrow or monday. thanks again for all of this information!

jon

I've seen an example of the Parisian Portable where the cone was printed with a basket weave pattern.

here are the pictures of the little rubber bits. I took out the old one (there was only one left), and made two new ones using some rubber roofing material (I assume neoprene or buna-n) it is between 1/16 and 3/32 inches thick. I used a small brass punch to make the new pieces. the punch is from a set used to put holes in corks/rubber stoppers in a chemistry lab.

hope that helps.

still can't figure out how to get inside mine without drilling out the rivets. if anyone knows, please let me know. I'm going to see about using the patterns to make a new cone/resonator in just a little bit. as is, the thing sounds like crap, both before I replaced the rubber and after. there is less buzzing now, but I wonder if my rubber is too stiff? I might have to try ordering a sample pack of various materials from mcmaster-carr.

anchorman wrote:... as is, the thing sounds like crap, both before I replaced the rubber and after. there is less buzzing now, but I wonder if my rubber is too stiff? I might have to try ordering a sample pack of various materials from mcmaster-carr.

It may also simply be a matter of adjusting the tension of the needle's pivot, by tightening or loosening the screws. As with most sound boxes, the needle must be free to track the lateral or sideways movement of the groove, but not so free that you can move the needle in the opposite direction.

Once the new resonator is attached, try test playing a record, and adjust the screws to see if there's an improvement.

This is generally what it should sound like --

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBczKEaTsKI[/youtube]
(The speed seems a little fast... )


The photos, BTW, are great!

OF

I just made a cone from .025" thick aluminum, riveted together at the seam. diameter before I bent it into the cone shape was about 15" (larges piece I had laying about the shop). I'll post a picture in a minute. I wish the others had been a bit more sharp, but the camera ended up focusing on my finger instead of the screws. I'll try that with the tension when I get home and see if that helps. I was thinking of trying some thin copper, too, but what I have would have weighed too much (16 oz. roofing copper). If I could find some I would try some even thinner aluminum, I think it might help the bass response a bit if the cone is not *too* rigid. I'll have to wait and see until I get home.

here's the pictures. it be portable and fit in the lid as it won't collapse, but I thought it would be an interesting experiment. I'll have to find some bigger paper to make a proper paper cone. the largest stuff I could find laying around was only 8.5x11"

off to go try this thing out!

It was nice to see one of these Pollys play. The comment about the speed inspired me to count revolutions when the label was in view. The turntable was running at 104 rpm, so it does need adjustment. 80 rpm is easy to do, since 20 revolutions in 15 seconds is the equivalent. 78 is just short of 20 in 15 secs.

well,

my cone was a bit of a bust. it was loud, but didn't sound well, and it seemed more than a bit too heavy. maybe .010" aluminum would work better. I think this was too stiff.

also might be the mystery rubber I used to make the bits for the needle holder. anyone know about what durometer rubber these should be?

mine really needs opening and cleaning still, the speed is inconsistent, which also does not contribute to quality sound.