The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

One other thing to look at. If you remove the spindle (you'll need a propane torch to take the brass gear off, it's "sweated" on), I believe you should find a ball bearing inside the motor frame, at the very bottom of the shaft. If this machine has been monkeyed around with, who knows what may be lurking down there, possibly causing the spindle shaft to ride too high.

Now that I look at your motor picture again, that slotted screw on the bottom may come out to give you access to this as well, if it's not corroded in place.

easiest fix is just to get the right crank to buy you some room in the hole alignment.

Shim the motor down from the motor board with ⅛ thick hard rubber washers. (plumbing isle).

Finally use spacer to raise bullet brake to an accecptable level. (can be make out of aluminum for a temporary fix until you get an orginal). Polished up most people could never tell the difference.

nothing you will be permanent, it's all reversable and the machine will work correctly

get er done..

blizz

No on the earlier Vic 2's the brass gear on the spindle is held on by a set screw. Very easy to remove.

Shane wrote:One other thing to look at. If you remove the spindle (you'll need a propane torch to take the brass gear off, it's "sweated" on), I believe you should find a ball bearing inside the motor frame, at the very bottom of the shaft. If this machine has been monkeyed around with, who knows what may be lurking down there, possibly causing the spindle shaft to ride too high.

Now that I look at your motor picture again, that slotted screw on the bottom may come out to give you access to this as well, if it's not corroded in place.

All this input is great, thanks! I've decided that somewhere along the way the original motor assembly was replaced by a later-style motor assembly. The early style spindle shaft sat lower and the brake didn't need the spacer. The later-style spindle shaft sat higher and required the thick brake spacer. The original cross-bar support in the spindle shaft on this machine should be, as noted above, just barely above the top of the case. Instead, it's about ¼" above. Since this machine is not the greatest and has been monkeyed with, I'm going to opt for adding the spacer under the brake. It's reversible for some later date. Total cost: $12 plus shipping.

Parts from a later single spring motor are not interchangeable with an earlier motor. I believe the spindle on your motor is correct. Please check to make sure there is only one ball bearing at the bottom of the spindle. I'd get rid of the too thick crank which would allow for some adjustment with washers, either rubber or felt, between the motor and board. Plus add the thicker spacer at the lower portion of the brake.
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There's a big screw in plug at the bottom of the spindle. After the motor has run COMPLETELY down, remove the plug to check on the ball bearing. Someone suggested removing the ball bearing but I would be reluctant go that route. It's there for a reason. My question is whether you could install a washer between the plug and the rest of the motor. That would allow for additional adjustment.

Jerry Blais

I've never been successful at getting those large screws out, but maybe you'll get lucky. If you do lower the ball, thus reducing spindle height, you will need to raise the brass gear to bring it back into proper contact with the governor shaft. It should be at the center of the governor shaft worm gear. I've never seen a Victor motor with the brass spindle gear either pressed or sweated in place. However, later motors had a blind hole drilled into the spindle shaft to locate this gear, so there was no room for adjustment but I don't think you will need to worry about that in your case.
BTW: If you do back the bottom screw out be sure to add spacer washers so you can draw the screw up tight. I don't think there is a very long threaded portion on it and you don't want it turning once you get it adjusted.

Jim

One of the best things that I've purchased is an electric heat gun. It's no more than a hair drier on steroids. I've used it numerous times to help loosen screws.

phonojim wrote:I've never been successful at getting those large screws out, but maybe you'll get lucky.

I'm just guessing, but could it be possible that the screw has left-handed thread? Just throwing that out there as something to consider with any motor screw that won't loosen.

You know, you just might have something there. The shaft runs clockwise, therefore a normal "righty-tighty" screw could be unscrewed by the rotation of the turntable.

Jim

I just checked my Vic-II, and I found that the screw is a normal right-handed screw. (blew my own theory dangit! )