The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

jboger wrote:I'm not sure what you mean by half-nut.

The half nut is the part that engages with the feedscrew: it is contained in the bracket below the carriage.

Anyway, I have some photos of my reproducer, and the above-mentioned problem, in the thread titled 'Advice on BF' (I still cannot for the life of me figure out how to link to a thread here)….

Bill

Curt A wrote:"Carburetor cleaner is the biggest "NO NO" you could ever get near any machine. Carburetor cleaner is for just "that" carburetor's. Not only will it remove dirt,it will remove any and all finishes on a 100+ year old machine."

Sorry, but I have to respond... This is the most ridiculous comment that I have heard. I never suggested using carburetor cleaner on the "finish of a 100+ year old machine". Please do not put words in my mouth or re-interpret what I said. If you are worried about using stuff that actually works, then don't use it... your choice.

I have used carburetor cleaner on metal parts for years and believe me when I say this... it won't hurt metal parts. Motors should be taken out of the cabinets to clean them and with them removed, no damage can be done to the cabinet. 100 year old graphite mixed with whatever type of grease was available back then is a pain in the a$$ to remove and it doesn't come off with soap and water.

Carburetor cleaner is not just for carburetors, as it is formulated to remove old hardened gunk and works well on all types of old hardened gunk. I seriously doubt that you have ever worked on a motor, considering your comments. Kerosene works well too, along with acetone and alcohol, but I seriously doubt that you would want to get acetone or alcohol on any finish - and I wouldn't suggest it. The comments that I have made are a result of many years of actual restoration experience and are not just whimsical ideas with no basis...

Curt, if you wish to use carburetor cleaner that's your choice. Your description you provided the member is what really concerns me. Remove the motor and spray the gears with carburetor cleaner. You mention nothing about removing the painted and decaled upper works. If just a drop of that cleaner hits any of that upper part of the machine....kiss that upper works originality "good bye". Not to mention any lacquer (if any) on the nickel bed plate. No caution is mentioned about "not" leaving the the case anywhere around while this chemical is being "sprayed".

You should ask yourself......what if this member had just raced out and followed your somewhat vague advice....???.

Since I specifically said "remove the motor and spray the gears", I thought that was very clear... I did not say spray the upper works, decals or finish. In fact, I said clean the upper works with GOOP. If someone is not familiar with working on these and is afraid to learn, then they should take it to someone and pay them to clean it... I am also assuming that most people use old fashioned common sense.

Just in case common sense is not part of the picture, please see the following warnings:

WARNING: Old windup phonographs are potentially dangerous and may cause physical harm. Do not let the crank fly out of your hand as potential injury may result. Do not clean motors with carburetor cleaner in your kitchen, on food surfaces or anywhere inside your house. The mist from carburetor cleaner may be hazardous - do not inhale or ingest it. Do not smoke while using it, it is flammable. Do not spray carburetor cleaner on decals or anything that concerns you. As with all mechanical devices, they can be dangerous and you may hurt yourself. Motor gears may pinch or cut your fingers and old grease buildup may cause infections if not treated immediately. Screwdrivers may slip out of their slots while using them and cause injuries, please familiarize yourself with their proper use. Do not remove motor springs without first reading about the hazards and decide for yourself if you are up to the challenge and any potential risks. Wear rubber gloves when using any refinishing products. Do not use paint remover, alcohol, ammonia, etc. on fine finishes as they might dissolve them. When using any woodworking tools, please be careful of your fingers and flying wood chips might damage your eyes, so always wear glasses. Electrical tools used for restoration should not be used in the rain or in wet conditions, as it may present an electrical hazard. Finishes used in restoration may not be good for your health, please consult your doctor.

One more warning: Old windup phonographs may cause mental instability resulting in addictive behavior and may lead to obsessive compulsive disorders. You may find that it is almost impossible to resist the urge to buy another one or pay too much money for related items and there is no known cure...

I thank everyone for their help. I'm so far ahead from where I was a few days ago thanks to the Forum and the kind people who have responded. I can see there are differences of opinion as to how to maintain these pieces of our history. I believe in conserving historical items, and so doing nothing is always the first option. The case will be left alone. As for the mechanism, I only want to carefully clean and oil the machine. There is floral painting on the upper part of the machine. I will not repaint any parts that may be missing. That's just honest wear and I accept it for what it is. Right now, I need to figure out how to remove the machine without damaging the case nor the mechanism. I have plenty more questions (like even though the stylus is a jewel, should it be replaced?). I laughed at Curt's comment that these machines are addictive. I'm ready to go back to that shop and buy the other Graphophone the dealer had. And I'm pretty sure my wife will soon be asking, who the h**l needs another one of those noisy machines? anyway, I need to wait until the weekend before I tackle removing the movement from the case. Thanks, everyone.

If you would like to have your reproducer rebuilt, cleaned and examined by an expert - who by the way, is one of the most honest and reasonably priced in our hobby - send it to Steven Medved in Florida. He can check your stylus and the condition of the diaphragm and won't charge you for parts you don't need. If you would like his contact information, please let me know (and NO, I don't get a commission for a referral, I just like his work).

Here are some pictures of the horn. Don't know enough to know if repro.

The horn is definitely an original period horn... and in nice condition.