https://forum.talkingmachine.info/
Yeah, but that one was badly refinished (or maybe JUST stripped back to bare wood and lightly waxed?) inside and out. It just proves the point that commonly found machines in less than first rate condition are usually highly undervalued. Collectors will all be waiting for the perfect one to appear.soundgen wrote:163 just sold on Ebay for £135 !
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Vinta ... 800wt_1257
Use a flat end pair of pliers to hold the nut, that should work.bart1927 wrote:I removed the end caps, but when I try to unscrew the rod, the nuts start turning also!CarlosV wrote:The way to do it is to unscrew the internal rod, it has two slots that fit a small screw driver. The nut will not move until the rod unscrews completely, then it will hang on the rod until you slide it completely out. To reinstall it, you don't need a wrench, just need to hold the nut in place with your finger and screw back the rod. It is not difficult.bart1927 wrote: Perhaps I will try to tweak the 5B soundbox a little. Only problem is I can't loosen the lock nuts. Even the smallest wrench I have doesn't fit.
Is there just one rod, or are there two? (One on each side of the needle bar?) When holding the nut with a pair of pliers I was able to turn the rod while keeping the nut in place, but the rod didn't come out. When I tried to unscrew the rod from the other side, the other nut kept turning, and I couldn't keep it in place with the pliers.CarlosV wrote: Use a flat end pair of pliers to hold the nut, that should work.
I've been turning that rod for minutes now, while holding the nut in place, but it doesn't fall off. Perhaps the screw thread (or how do you call it) is damaged?Phono48 wrote:The are two, one each side. When your are gripping the nut, turn the rod until the nut falls off the inner end. You can then push the nut and the rod will slide out. On the one that is stubborn, put some penetrating oil on the thread, leave it overnight, and try again.
Barry
Hi Graham,Gram1948 wrote:Hi Bart,
Just a note more on the refixing of the veneer. Unlike my cabinet which was in such a poor state I chose, dare I say it, to re-finish it. You will want to fix veneer without damaging the surface finish. That was not of particular concern to me as I was stripping it anyway. It's therefore more critical that you are careful with the heat from your iron. The aim is to get the glue to melt without damaging the polished surface. Also instead of a cloth use something thicker like a towel. Where the wood has blistered it should go back as long as the blistering has not distorted the wood too much. Where veneer has broken off near the edge dirt may have got in but I'd initially try the same approach in the first instance, low heat applied to a towel on the offending area. As you suggest, best to work on those back areas first. Ultimately you may have to resort to applying new glue but I'd try re-heating the animal glue in the first instance BUT only if your experience with the back proves successful.