The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Here is a repaired crank that came with a basket case vv-vi I purchased.

Hi Pete. That sounds like a good option also. I found a chart that says 3960 psi is equal to 6288 foot pounds is torque. I don't think there is that much torque in the cranking of the machine do you? This company says it's glue is almost as strong as if it was welded.

Rich Gordon

Ronnie,
Bill Beam should be able to fix it for you and he is only 10 miles away in Pumpkin Center off Hwy 150. PM me if you want his phone number - he is a good guy to know and extremely reasonable...

As far as JB Weld goes, just make sure you use the black and red two part stuff that takes 24 hrs to cure - not the 5 minute stuff. I fixed the broken light shade arm on a Fairy Phonograph Lamp that had broken right at the pot metal elbow. After the repair, it now holds a very heavy 22" leaded glass lamp shade with no problem. You will need to pin the crank for the strongest fix. Like previously suggested, use a steel finish nail and drill through the shaft side all the way into the handle part - that should work.

"But the problem with pinning it has to do with proper and accurate alignment of the two pieces. Unless they are in perfect registration, the "fix" will not only look bad but also be weak. If anybody has a good technique for addressing this issue, please share it!"

I noticed someone wrote this, and thought I would share again....I came up early on in this thread. When I drill the small holes on either side of the break, I make sure they line up, as closely as I can. The drilled holes should be slightly larger than the material I am inserting to use for support--like paperclip pieces. Just like mentioned by another poster, I use the 24 hour dry JB weld, and not the 5 minute stuff. By using a paperclip type material that is slightly smaller than the drilled hole, it has room to move, so you can put the 2 pieces together just right! Before applying the JB weld, I try a "dry" fit, to make sure everything will be able to line up right. If no further adjustments need to be made, I fill the small holes with the JB weld (as well as putting some on the surface area of the break), and insert the paperclip pieces, or other reinforcing material, and marry the 2 pieces together, and clamp and leave to let set for at least 24 hours! This has worked for me--good luck!!

Mike Sorter

Actually I just saw the post above mine about using a larger steel nail, with head cut off, and that this would make that an even stronger repair!!

Mike Sorter

gsphonos wrote:"But the problem with pinning it has to do with proper and accurate alignment of the two pieces. Unless they are in perfect registration, the "fix" will not only look bad but also be weak. If anybody has a good technique for addressing this issue, please share it!"

I noticed someone wrote this, and thought I would share again....I came up early on in this thread. When I drill the small holes on either side of the break, I make sure they line up, as closely as I can. The drilled holes should be slightly larger than the material I am inserting to use for support--like paperclip pieces. Just like mentioned by another poster, I use the 24 hour dry JB weld, and not the 5 minute stuff. By using a paperclip type material that is slightly smaller than the drilled hole, it has room to move, so you can put the 2 pieces together just right! Before applying the JB weld, I try a "dry" fit, to make sure everything will be able to line up right. If no further adjustments need to be made, I fill the small holes with the JB weld (as well as putting some on the surface area of the break), and insert the paperclip pieces, or other reinforcing material, and marry the 2 pieces together, and clamp and leave to let set for at least 24 hours! This has worked for me--good luck!!

Mike Sorter

That was my query; thanks for this response. So you drill the hole(s) larger than the pin(s) diameter, to allow some "slop" for adjusting the fit. Very clever, and so simple I can kick myself for not figuring it out. Pardon me for a moment while I rise from my chair. This shouldn't take long....

VintageTechnologies wrote:If it was me, I'd buy another crank and pocket the difference from the $125 refund. A Home crank should not be all that hard to find. JB Weld may be good, but that crank will be subject to a lot of torque. If the crank suddenly breaks while winding, I would not necessarily trust the spring pawl to do its job to keep the spring from unwinding really fast. I have seen some pawls that barely catch under the best of circumstances.

The 125.00 wasn't just for the crank. Actually, it was a total of 200.00. When she made the deasl, she didn't know how to change it on auction. I told her I would just pay the total and she could refund me. That was 100.00 of it. Just didn't want you gys to think I jipped some old lady.