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Don't use heat if the tonearm is potmetal or you will end up with a pile of leadlike melted crud... Been there, done that...

If you have a cordless drill, you might try using a flat blade and reversing them out... I had to do this recently and it was the only way I could free a rusted screw. Make sure that the tonearm and reproducer are laying flat on a solid surface and cushioned with a folded towel or something similar and make sure the flat bit is completely inserted into the screw slot before trying it. If the flat blade is too thick for the screw slot, file or grind it to the appropriate thickness. That will prevent the screw from getting buggered up... it worked for me. Good luck.

Did you try putting it in the freezer over night? That often gets the screws loose. I also tried the freezer and then just heating the screw heads with a soldering iron. If it does not work the first time, back into the freezer. I played that game with one reproducer for a full week, trying every day again. Just be patient, it will budge at some point.

Good luck!
Andreas

If it is real natural rubber around those screws it should dissolve if you soak it in gasoline.

I agree!!! What a wonderful "Period era" find!!!

Personally, I love machines that have Period Era "additions" added to them if they are as tasteful as this one!

I would leave the outside just as you found it. I would think that on deciding what motor to use or restore would be your biggest obstacle..

)

Tony K.

Edison Collector/Restorer

Curt A wrote:Don't use heat if the tonearm is potmetal or you will end up with a pile of leadlike melted crud... Been there, done that...

Thanks guys! I'm going to give all those methods a try. I have most of the rubber removed from one screw, so Ill try that one first with the freezer. And then move to the drill if needed.

I didn't think about it being pot metal! Is this tonearm made out of pot metal? That could explain why its still stuck even after penetrating oil.

Oceangoer1 wrote:

Curt A wrote:Don't use heat if the tonearm is potmetal or you will end up with a pile of leadlike melted crud... Been there, done that...

Thanks guys! I'm going to give all those methods a try. I have most of the rubber removed from one screw, so Ill try that one first with the freezer. And then move to the drill if needed.

I didn't think about it being pot metal! Is this tonearm made out of pot metal? That could explain why its still stuck even after penetrating oil.

To the best of my knowledge, the early Columbia tone arms were made of cast aluminum, not pot metal.

Considering the condition of the reproducer, a pot metal arm would show more signs of deterioration: surface cracks, etc.

Bill

One of the few things I've learned over the years is never to rush a stuck screw.
Just mind it daily with your favorite light oil, atf and lacquer thinner, pb blaster or whatever while you attend to other things. One day those screws will turn.-Bill.