Recording Edison Cylinders

[Chuck]

"I make blanks that are 4 and a half inches, long, and 2.90" in diameter" (quoted)

Hi Shawn...you meant 2.190" diameter I think.

As far as I know, the working range of diameters for blanks is from about 2.196"
down to about 2.112"

I have successfully snuck them on my machine
when they are 2.200" diameter, but that's really pushing it! When they're that large, the recorder and reproducer both are very
close to jamming tight all the way up.

From some data I gathered from other collectors
it can be shown that the factory diameters
of brown wax Edison recording blanks is
right around 2.180 inch diameter.

I hate to shave them down any farther than
required to get them to fit on the machine, and
to get down to the first good recording surface. No need to take them clear down to
2.150 or 2.160 (like we see sometimes)

For people who want blanks to record on and
to do experiments and tests with, I think that
having as many shave-and-record cycles per blank as possible is a good thing.

I would like to hear opinions on this.

[edisonphonoworks]

Yes Chuck, exactly! I have an easy way to test, I have a standard,blank, and compare the thickness when I shave, to the standard, and if it is larger in diamiter than the standard, it is good to go.

[MicaMonster]

My biggest problem that I have had as of late with the PM blanks is that they do not fit on the mandrel the same way twice, and when shaving them down with a high speed Ediphone shaving machine (with a nifty vacuum swarf collection system!), they have to be cut 2-3 times to get re-concentric. They have a terrible wobble to them if you try to recut them. No idea why they are like this, but original Edison and Columbia blanks I have shaved and re-cut fit PERFECTLY every time.

Shawn, I have not used your blanks yet, but look forward to doing so.

As far as shaving records with the Ediphone shaver, I do 2 passes as a regular shave, and 1 pass on the "fine" setting.....results are mirror finish. Well, as mirror-finish as you can get on brown wax!

The new cutting stylus jewels being made in the UK have a different cutting edge (asymmetrical, for lack of a better descriptor), but they do an ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE JOB, much better than the original concave jewels. Probably has to do with how the swarf is kicked away from the groove. Getting the jewels mounted at just the right angle is important, too. With a properly adjusted Edison recorder, you can record "loud whispers." Sometimes, I just rotate the original Edison cutter to a new facet, and it brings back all of the original performance.

Other hints from my insanity:

Use an old electric boot dryer (the one with adjustable pipes), positioned near the mandrel to gently blow the swarf into the wake of the cutting stylus (MAKES THE MESS WORSE, though)

I warm up recording blanks with a hair dryer for 3 minutes before recording. Not hot enough to melt them, but enough to make them warm to the touch.


To record and play one's voice back with an antique phonograph is one of life's real joys.

-W

-W

[edisonphonoworks]

Mica, I had the same problem with P.M. blanks too. I do not think it is totally his fault though. Im very slow, getting orders filled, because of the seasoning factor, and my guess is that he has lots more orders than I do, snd ships the blanks too soon. That is really why I like to sell only what I make, but I have been accepting orders lately. When blanks are made, it is imparative to season them I give them a rough shave, and they set for two to three weeks, and I check for fit, on the phonograph, and check for wobble ect, and I have to be very careful with this, as my blanks are longer than original blanks, this is not always true, however, my leanght standard policy is that they must be at least as long as an Edison Gold moulded and most are ¼-½" longer than a regular cylinder, they can be used for masters.

Here is a problem, I am looking for a soulution for that is definate.

I have been having streak trouble again, that is blanks with stars and streaks, it looks like snowflakes,(candle makers put these in many candles on purpose as an effect, but of course a blank enthusiast like myself wants none at all.) I have never seen this on original blanks, but have on the P.M., and mine. This is something I have been struggling with for as long as I can remember, sometimes, changing the temp higher or lower, will get rid of it, or adding a little more stearic. I have tried vibrating the mold,making the blanks in the oven, just about every molding temp, pre heating the mold, chilling the mold. Nothing is constant with the process, you can mold three great blanks in a row, and then bam, stars and streaks, so Ill go and let the mold take a rest, and start over again, and sometimes this helps. The interesting thing is they do not make noise, at least that is good. I have seen beautiful blanks that had noise, and cylinders with stars and streaks that were dead quiet, and some of the ones I made this weekend were ugly blanks that were very very quiet.

[gramophoneshane]

That's odd that you both have trouble with Paul Morris blanks not fitting the mandrel the same way twice. I only have 6 of them, but they all sit on the mandrel in exactly the same position.
I haven't had any trouble with a wobble either, but I use a Columbia dictaphone shaver, though I dont see how that would make a difference?
I do however find I have to shave them with 2 or 3 passes to make them re-concentric, but then the same thing occures with original blanks & GM cylinders too. Actually it can take more passes on originals, but I've always thought that might be due to using Edison cylinders on a Columbia shaver, but not having an Ediphone shaver I've had no way to check that theory.

I have a fine spiral ribs, not deep inside, to help grip the mandrel, but not so thick as to. Limit the number of shaves and not have the annoying mid low resonance..

I'm not sure I understand this statement either, as you can only shave any cylinder so far before the stylus will no longer reach the surface, nor have I had any problem with resonance on any ribbed cylinder new or old. I only use a regular everyday recorder which I suppose could be the difference?

[edisonphonoworks]

It is normal to take a pass or two to make cylinders on the mark. I notice more nuances when playing or recording cylinders, than most, beings I have asbergers, I notice things, that pass most normal people by. I use an early 1910s era business machine shaver and it has a more entertainment cylinder friendly mandrel.

[Chuck]

[quote="MicaMonster"]
an get on brown wax!

The new cutting stylus jewels being made in the UK have a different cutting edge (asymmetrical, for lack of a better descriptor), but they do an ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE JOB, much better than the original concave jewels.

------------------------
Mica-

Are you referring to those flat-ended, chisel-pointed 2-minute cutters made by "Expert"?

I ask because I have one mounted in an Edison
home recorder, and it's not so good at all.

The genuine Edison cupped-point sapphire cutters sound much better than that flat-ended
"Expert" cutter does.

Those are my results so far.