Almost have an Edison Home Cylinder phonograph working...

[Menophanes]

I have a similar machine (albeit with an earlier style of carrier-arm and no combination-gearing) which always lost power when I lowered the reproducer, just as this one does, until I smeared a film of light oil along the top of the 'straight-edge' on which the front of the carriage rests. I had already cleared any trace of rust from the straight-edge and the carriage had seemed to move along it perfectly freely, and yet this film of lubricant made all the difference.

Oliver Mundy.

[ewomack]

After some adjusting and fiddling, the carriage moves on its own, but not for long. It gets hung up and starts sputtering about 10% of the way in. I put oil on the feedscrew and on the "straight-edge" under the carriage and even a drop on the half-nut itself. I was only able to get it moving without a cylinder and so far only on the 2 minute setting. Is this just part of the fun of adjusting these beasts? Or could something else be wrong? It at least feels like minor progress.

A video of the results: https://youtu.be/cCa3cICtFME

Just to make sure, I should be winding the machine until it almost can't be wound anymore, correct? From a completely unwound spring that usually ends up being around 30 revolutions, give or take 2 - 3. I'm trying to wind it by feel, so I'm going just about where I wouldn't be able to wind it anymore.

I'm also using a rubber belt, not a leather one. The leather belt that came with the machine looks like it had been sandblasted and it would definitely not survive being threaded.

[Lucius1958]

The rubber belt may be slightly too tight, which could perhaps account for the slowing down. You might also try some slight adjustments to the end bearings on the mandrel shaft, which might possibly improve performance.

As for the half nut stopping, have you examined it for wear? I know my Home had problems, when I looked at the half nut, and found it had deteriorated into something resembling Shredded Wheat®. You can get reproduction half nuts these days, which do a good job. Alternatively, you might try loosening the two screws holding the half nut to the arm, and moving it around slightly until you feel the threads engage properly.

Also, is there any wear or damage on the feed screw? It looks rather spotty in the videos. One suggestion might be to take a needle, or some similar fine, pointed object, and guide it carefully along the thread while the screw is turning: that might clear out any debris or corrosion impeding the half nut.

I'm sure others can offer more, and probably better, advice on solving this problem: the key is patience and concentration.

-Bill

[Wes K]

The spring that the half-nut is attached to seems to be bent too much, this will change the way the half-nut engages with the feedscrew. The spring should be almost straight and closer to the feed nut guard. This will keep the feed nut centered over the feed screw.

If you can take the feedscrew off and wash it in lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and inspect the threads for pits and dents. Use a fine BRASS bristled brush and clean the threads.


If you have to wind the machine fully for it to play, something is wrong. 10 to 12 turns is enough to ply a record.

Belt tension is critical. The belt cannot be to tight. when the machine is running, grab the mandrel and hold it from turning. The belt should slip and the motor slow to a stop.

This is the procedure I use to adjust the half nut on my Home & Triumph machines.
Loosen the pinch bolt on the back of the carriage tube so the tube will turn.
Attach the feednut to the spring and place it on the feed screw, with the spring facing you and the end that attaches to the tube pointing up toward the ceiling.
Hold the feednut on the feedscrew and rotate it down until the end of the spring contacts the flat surface on the tube where the two screw holes are.
Rotate the tube so the flat spot is level with the end of the spring.
Don't let the feed nut and spring move left or right, but shift the carriage left or right until the screw holes line up with the holes and, still holding the feednut tight on the feed screw, put the guard and screws on and tighten them down.
Take an index card and cut it so you can put 2 thicknesses of the card between the carriage and straight edge when carriage is in down position.
Rotate the tube until the half nut just touches the feedscrew.(just touches but does not engage!)
Tighten the pinch bolt screw in this position.
Remove the index card shim, and remove the drive belt from the drive pulley.
Use the adjusting screw on the feed nut guard and adjust the feednut for the lowest amount of drag that will keep the carriage moving across from one end to the other without the feednut skipping on the feed screw.
Check that the drag is consistent at least at the beginning, middle, and end of the screw.

It's all part of the fun!

[CDBPDX]

The feed screw needs to be installed inside the center collar. It appears that it is outside the collar. The groove on the right end of the feed screw needs to be inserted into the end of the collar and a small lip will hold it in place. See how the feed screw is inserted into the end of the collar.