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Lah Ca wrote: Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:48 pm Aeolian Vocalian 1914/15 Catalogue Styles

Just for clarification, Aeolian announced the Vocalion in late 1914 but did not introduce them till 1915. (No machines were made commercially prior to 1915.)

(https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-B ... ocalion%22)

Benjamin_L wrote: Fri Mar 25, 2022 11:03 pm

Lah Ca wrote: Sat Mar 19, 2022 6:48 pm Aeolian Vocalian 1914/15 Catalogue Styles

Just for clarification, Aeolian announced the Vocalion in late 1914 but did not introduce them till 1915. (No machines were made commercially prior to 1915.)

(https://worldradiohistory.com/hd2/IDX-B ... ocalion%22)

Yes. But the designs may have been in place, and whoever did the library claasification for the Aeolian Vocalian catalogue wrote in a copyright date of 1914.

Lah Ca wrote: Sat Mar 26, 2022 12:08 am Yes. But the designs may have been in place, and whoever did the library classification for the Aeolian Vocalian catalogue wrote in a copyright date of 1914.

The written 1914 has been a source of confusion for collectors for years. Wakeman's book notes the first cabinet models were designed in November of 1914. They were gradually improved upon over the next few months, with the first cabinets officially patented in 1915. The catalogue was released/copywrited in 1915, the written 1914 was likely a misjudgment added later.

(https://patents.google.com/patent/USD48 ... 101&page=3)

Benjamin_L wrote: Sat Mar 26, 2022 8:29 pm

Lah Ca wrote: Sat Mar 26, 2022 12:08 am Yes. But the designs may have been in place, and whoever did the library classification for the Aeolian Vocalian catalogue wrote in a copyright date of 1914.

The written 1914 has been a source of confusion for collectors for years. Wakeman's book notes the first cabinet models were designed in November of 1914. They were gradually improved upon over the next few months, with the first cabinets officially patented in 1915. The catalogue was released/copywrited in 1915, the written 1914 was likely a misjudgment added later.

(https://patents.google.com/patent/USD48 ... 101&page=3)

Cool. Thanks.

7. Brake Pad

I have a question here about the brake pad for the platter. It appears to be a thick disk of heavily compressed felt, something of similar material to the tip of a pool/snooker cue or the felts on piano hammers and dampers. It is worn away to the point that the cork below the brake pad will soon wear too. I should replace this soon.

I could just try removing it, turning it, and reattaching it but it is probably better to replace it.

Does anyone have any suggestions for materials, adhesives, and techniques?

Thanks.

Motorboard Top

This post is just for documentation purposes.

You get a good view of the elaborate and highly effect auto-stop mechanism. I cleaned the mechanism up a bit yesterday and lubricated it all with an expensive light weight synthetic grease. It works better and more quietly now.

Also of interest to those interested in the minutia of things, you can see the hole in the motorboard for the screw for the shipping block that would have held the tone arm securely in place for shipping from the factory. The A-V user manual provides instructions for the removal of the block. I wonder if any shipping blocks have survived - rarities of rarities but probably not any collector's holy grail.

The Motor

This post is also for documentation purposes.

But there is a tangent to the topic of lubrication discussed in these recent threads below and a number of kind and helpful PMs I received on the topic. Lubrication is, it seems, a topic of some divergent opinion.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=44099

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51900

The dual spring motor is large, heavy, and strong. It has no problem playing anything, even the most atrociously worn 78s from the late 50s and early 60s.

Mine has obviously been serviced in recent years. It was slathered in some excellent quality light weight grease, something in the netherworld between light grease and heavy oil. It has a grey/black component to it. Graphite? Molybdenum? The service person's fingerprints have been left in the grease on the bottom plate with the A-V name.

I have removed a lot of this grease from areas that do not need lubrication. There was way more than could be justified for corrosion prevention purposes. And it was running off the motor and pooling on top of the horn.

I also removed a lot of it from sensitive parts such as the governor. The motor runs better and longer with adequate rather than excessive lubrication here.

Another thing of note is that motor was hanging loosely, suspended from the motorboard rather than secured to it. I do not suspect the service person of negligence here. I think it just works itself loose over time with winding and play, The fact that the motorboard was not actually fastened to the case before I put proper screws in it may have accelerated the loosening. Checking the tightness of the screws is now part of general periodic maintenance. They do loosen ever so slightly all on their own.

The Platter

The platter is a heavy casting. It shows no sign of having been balanced. Does anyone bother to have their platters balanced?

Inside the Horn Chamber

The service/lubrication instructions glued to the horn are now visible after I removed the deep pool of grease from the top of the horn. My double-ended magnetic snake light photo-bombs the shot.

On the left you can see the Graduola linkage. I forgot to lubricate this. Oh well. Next time.

I had to remove the block with the heavy felt bushing for the crank because I needed to figure out why the external Bakelite (?) bushing kept working its way out of the case while winding. It was in no danger of falling out. I had a very hard time removing it. I put a piece of electrical tape inside the hole, the piece about ¼ the length of the hole's circumference, then worked the bushing back in as far as possible, and finally used a wooden mallet with a very soft spruce drift to drive the bushing fully into place. Then I had to use a razor knife to trim the excess tape from the inside of the cabinet before reattaching the block with the felt bushing.

Lah Ca wrote: Fri Apr 15, 2022 11:13 am 7. Brake Pad
.....
Does anyone have any suggestions for materials, adhesives, and techniques?

Thanks.

Mine suffered from the same problem. I ended gluing with contact glue a small leather disc. It works fine.
My brake has the long rod bent here and there. I managed to straighten it a bit, not completely... but it works!
About the platter... at these slow speeds, I don't think perfect balancing is needed... Mine is as yours, and works very well.
My machine is 100 years old now, probably more, and hasn't had any issues except three:
The pot metal tonearm is broken, and the back support too. I've managed to get a new complete assembly from Canada (Angelo Raffin) with which I'll replaced mine, as it is much better made and the metal is thicker and very solid with no issues. Pity it is nickel plated, so I'll have to make it look golden.
The graduola wire cloth sleeve is peeled at some parts, so it doesn't work properly, for the cloth serves the purpose of fixing the outer wire while you push the inner wire, working in tension. Works like the bike brake wire.
I had covered it with black electrical tape, but this falls off with time, leaving a sticky residue. I have to glue black cloth strips or something that looks similar and corrects the issue.
The lid stay retainer at the motorboard was long time broken. I can manage to support the free end so it works. I also acquired a new lid support, but the end father to the lid is of another type, and it cannot be attached to my lid, as it was made for a pagoda lid, and its suitably inclined. I need to make a wooden wedge or something so I can attach it to my lid.
Apart from these problems, and with temporary repairs, the machine works like a champion.
The soundbox is very good, and the square conical horn is big, and it sounds great even with electrical recordings, except for that ringing resonance of this type of horns. I have a long time project (procastinating...) about designing a removable insert to be placed into the horn, such that the insert will fit in the horn neck at the back, taking the sound from there, but will contain a folded exponential horn such that the mouth fits with the horn mouth. To be readily inserted or removed from the front, and no need to transform the machine. It must bea folded exponential horn that fits in the space inside the original horn, with a throat appendix at the back to be inserted in the horn neck, fitting airtight.
Still I have to measure the inner space of that big horn, and design the device to fit inside that space, but having a greater length and exponential or tractrix ratio. Then make it out of plastic or papier maché or any suitable material.... I'm sure it will improve the sound greatly.
I had a temptation to make it fast, but less elegant and much intrusive... and it was to remove the original horn and install an hmv horn from the 127, which fits into my machine... But I don't want to be so drastic. The solution of maintaining the original horn and making the exponential device to be installed inside seems much more elegant....