The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

VanEpsFan1914 wrote:http://www.veneer-factory-outlet.com/ti ... s-savings/. This should be the veneer. Quarter-sawn oak, right?

You will want the 3/64ths wood-on-wood instead of the paper-backed, with no adhesive. That, you will want to apply yourself.

Anyway, I have used the rift oak from here when I was making little kits to redo Amberola 30s. And it worked really well. Haven't tried the quartered oak. They ship quickly and considering it looks like an exact c20th piece of wood, you will definitely get your money's worth. It won't be cheap but if you were in something for "cheap" I don't think you'd be taking apart a Herzog.

They dont have the large flake tiger oak veneer in 3/64..... man its expensive

Just another idea... take it for what it's worth. Since the top is in rough shape anyway, why not try to find some quarter sawn oak furniture - maybe a dresser or something from that time frame and just use it for the wood. You could then cut out a replacement copy of the top from an already veneered piece of furniture. That type of furniture used to be worth something, but now you can't give it away. A quarter sawn table top would be great also... just thinking...

Yeah I guess that's not a bad idea.

I still do not know how much veneer I will end up needing. Because the veneer between the pieces isn't in great shape either

I may end up needing like 5 sheets

David, as an alternative to using antique furniture, the best option for the top is solid 4/4 (1" thick) quartersawn prime boards. You would cut them to the approximate length of the top and glue them edge to edge to the desired width of the top, then using the original top as a pattern, cut out a new top and finish the edges with a router. Don't use veneer on the top, since the edges are visible and won''t appear to be the same. Spend some time researching this, since the cabinet will be either (1) desirable or (2) not desirable, depending on how it's restored. There are lumber yards that supply millwork to upscale furniture manufacturers or cabinet companies that you can order prime lumber from.

Here is a place in Ohio that carries prime 4/4 quartersawn white oak boards: http://www.yoderlumber.com/images/pdfs/ ... celist.pdf
Call them and see what is available... then plan it out. It will be worth your time to do this correctly, not just glue the old mess back together.

"The grain of quarter sawn white oak includes decorative effects such as ray flecks, interlocking, and wavy “ribbon” patterns, which are often featured in fine furniture and cabinetry. Quarter Sawn boards are also more stable and are less likely to cup or shrink."

Update time:

I’ve been working on the cabinet whenever I have some free time. It’s been super frustrating trying to get all the paint out of every little nook and cranny. I am also pleased that I was able to get almost all of the paint out of the wood grain! Soon I will be done with the paint and on to the wood working. I met a professional woodworker here in town who is going to help me with both the woodwork and the refinish.

Here’s some pics!

Also is there a good wood filler that can be stained? I have 5 holes to fill in on the back of the cabinet.

Cheers,
David

Outstanding progress!

I guess you can plug the round holes with a dowel and simulate the grain.

James.

Roaring20s wrote:Outstanding progress!

I guess you can plug the round holes with a dowel and simulate the grain.

James.

That's not a bad idea!

David

If you use a plug cutter, you can find a piece of wood with similar grain and cut a plug from that. A dowel will have end grain showing.
To answer your original question about a wood filler that takes stain, I have had decent results with Elmers wood filler. Try it on scrap first to make sure you like it.
Dave

Dave D wrote:If you use a plug cutter, you can find a piece of wood with similar grain and cut a plug from that. A dowel will have end grain showing.
To answer your original question about a wood filler that takes stain, I have had decent results with Elmers wood filler. Try it on scrap first to make sure you like it.
Dave

I agree with Dave, a plug cutter is the way to go. They come in many sizes to match the hole you need to fill.
Find some old oak with the same grain to match the grain around the hole you are filling. The better the grain match, the more the hole disappears.

Larry Crandell

Phonolair wrote:

Dave D wrote:If you use a plug cutter, you can find a piece of wood with similar grain and cut a plug from that. A dowel will have end grain showing.
To answer your original question about a wood filler that takes stain, I have had decent results with Elmers wood filler. Try it on scrap first to make sure you like it.
Dave

I agree with Dave, a plug cutter is the way to go. They come in many sizes to match the hole you need to fill.
Find some old oak with the same grain to match the grain around the hole you are filling. The better the grain match, the more the hole disappears.

Larry Crandell

If he had only made the holes an inch higher. I wouldn’t have to worry about matching that stripe (is that the right word?) in the wood

Here’s a picture. I can attach a better one when I return home on Monday.

David