The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Marc Hildebrant wrote:Herderz,

Very nice work. Did you consider fixing the spring with just new oil ? Also, I see that you use white grease for the spring rather than the original graphite\oil mixture. Do you feel that the grease is better ?

Marc

Just adding oil is no way to service a spring. In fact, oil really has no place in a phonograph spring. Just grease.

EDIT: Yes, okay, I forgot we're talking about Edison springs and I guess Edison did use an oil based lube, as the post below reminds me. Still, I believe it's impractical to rejuvenate the old lube by adding fresh oil.

Marc, I used synthetic white lithium because I think it holds up better on low speed, low heat applications and does not separate as much over time. I know Edison used dry graphite and "Edison oil". I think it is just a sign of the times. They did not have anything like modern lubricant's. Graphite is very slick but hard to keep suspended in the oil. That is not the graphite's fault but the oil and one reason it cakes. "Edison oil" might not of been petroleum based, who knows. Industries used Neatsfoot oil well into the 40's and 50's and it was made of animal fat. The drum does have a oil plug to add oil, it is next to the spring mount stud. I use synthetic oil on my clock gear trains because it stays or sticks to the surface better than traditional clock oil. I guess I am not a purist when it comes to lube's.

I worked on rejuvenating the finish on the cast iron main board. It took about 4 hours but hey I got the time. this pic shows the halfway point and the difference a little elbow grease can make. I never add finish to a part like this just cleaning. The finished board turned out quiet nice. I would say that it is a black lacquer base that has been dipped per droplets of paint on the underside, gold or brass stenciled lettering, etc. with a lacquer or shellac top coat, probably dripped also. I will re-assemble the motor and clean the gold hardware next.

To put it simply, you are very good at what you do! Awesome job!

Wow. I’m really impressed with the work you’ve done on this cabinet!

Cheers,

David

Thanks guys,
I started re-assembling the motor starting with the spindle assembly, it is a pinned casting so there is no adjusting it's alignment. Installed the oil tube assembly and tweaked the tip alignment to each pivot point. Then the spring drive assembly which uses 2 pinning bolts or shoulder bolt with counter sinks which aligns it's casting. On the oiling cup and tubes one of the tubes was loose and needed re-soldered.

While checking tube alignment, 3 tubes are inserted into holes on the spring mount casting and the loose tube feeds the horn worm drive at the rack end of the gear. It was here that I noticed a stress crack in the pivot pin. I removed the gear and sure enough I took the tip of my finger and easily flicked the tip off. This was very disheartening but I am glad I found it because it would not of lasted much longer. This was one of the three tubes that was clogged and who know how long it has been running dry. Now what to do. I don't have one just laying around. The only option was to make a new one. After studying the situation I determined that I could turn down the end of the pin to form a new pivot. I would have to switch the two tips out because the broken tip is on the adjust side of the gear used to set backlash. The other end is set to center the worm gear and then adjusting the other end sets backlash. I got everything back together and everything greased up and ready to go back in the cabinet.

I cleaned up the horn, it just had a oily film and very dirty. I re-assembled the horn and motor back into the cabinet and adjusted the speed knob index. It is turning very smoothly and I am well pleased. I cleaned the hinges, the latch and the screws and new felt pads on the front edge and re-installed the lid. The inside really pop's now.

Beautiful and thoughtful work. Your C200 will perform well for another 105 or so years.

Maybe I'm just imagining it, but it looks happier.

Best,
Fran

Simply beautiful.

Since you're into small details, every Edison Diamond Disc machine that I've seen, that has not been tampered with, has had the slots on the wood screw heads aligned with each other. This even includes the 3 screws in the crank eschutcheon and the very tiny wood screws in the key eschutcheon. The crank eschutcheon screws are arranged in a circle, (as best as you can with straight slots of course). I've also seen this on my Victor L-Door XVI.