The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Thanks Jerry Van, I understand what you are saying. I am a compulsive perfectionist by nature. Coming from factory they can take it to that detail because they are working with new wood. We, 100 years later have to deal with how the wood has dried out and how many times the screws have been removed and re-installed. I am happy to get a screw to grab enough to tighten sometimes. I have done many things to make this happen over the years. Glue tooth pick tips into holes to allow the screw to grab, drill the hole out and glue a dowel pin into the hole, drill a pilot and put in the screw. I guess my stance on this level of detail would hinge on did I refinish anything on the machine, and if so does it justify this detail because I did so. If original and I take a screw out is it still original? If I refinish the cabinet and worry about the screw alignment is it original?

Herderz wrote:Thanks Jerry Van, I understand what you are saying. I am a compulsive perfectionist by nature. Coming from factory they can take it to that detail because they are working with new wood. We, 100 years later have to deal with how the wood has dried out and how many times the screws have been removed and re-installed. I am happy to get a screw to grab enough to tighten sometimes. I have done many things to make this happen over the years. Glue tooth pick tips into holes to allow the screw to grab, drill the hole out and glue a dowel pin into the hole, drill a pilot and put in the screw. I guess my stance on this level of detail would hinge on did I refinish anything on the machine, and if so does it justify this detail because I did so. If original and I take a screw out is it still original? If I refinish the cabinet and worry about the screw alignment is it original?

Understood. I've been able to replicate that alignment, but only if I keep track of what screw came out of what hole, but even then sometimes, it just doesn't work out, (wood drying out, as you state). Please don't feel that my mention of it was in any way a criticism. Just a little background if you cared to pursue it.

Very nice work.

Couple of questions:

1. Did you restore the Reproducer ?

2. How did you clean the motorplate ?

Marc

Marc, I used "Meguiar's Fine-Cut Cleaner" on the mainboard. I have used this for years on all kinds of finishes with great success.

I started on the lateral reproducer. I dis-assembled it and polished the nickel with Maas polish.

I polished the needle arm pivot points and the arm cups. The diaphragm looks in perfect shape but I don't know what it is made of. The back side outer ring has a machined finish.

I re-assembled everything with new seals and I can really tell the difference in sound quality. I have got new seals for the diamond disc reproducer but have yet to find a new diaphragm for it.

Great job on that reproducer!

Wyatt Markus sells replacement diaphragms for diamond disc reproducers.

Cheers

David

Herderz wrote:I polished the needle arm pivot points and the arm cups. The diaphragm looks in perfect shape but I don't know what it is made of. The back side outer ring has a machined finish.

20201227_135553.jpg

20201227_135728.jpg

I still say either vulcanite (aka ebonite) or gutta-percha. I don't know if there is any test for either.

- Bill

Thanks guys,
Well I decided to break down the D D reproducer. Worse case I would have to wait on a new diaphragm, best case just replace the seals. It definitely needs new seals. The diaphragm looks really good not a scratch on it. I am going to clean everything up and put in the new seals.