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Those who own a VV 8-30 Credenza may be able to help out with a problem I'm having with mine.

The two air damper lid supports for my VV 8-30 Credenza don't do their job. I can lift the lid up, and it locks and stays in place, but if I begin to lower the lid and let it go, it'll crash to the top of the cabinet rather than gently lower itself down. I've tried adjusting the tension screws at the end of each support tube, but to no avail. I would like to know the following:


Specifically, how is the air damper support system supposed to work?

If the supports do not gently lower the lid to the cabinet, what is not happening?

Is such a problem with the air support dampers repairable? If so, how is it done?

Is the repair job a hassle, can it be done by an inexperienced owner, or should the dampers go to a professional?

Would I be better-off looking for a fully-functional pair of dampers online?


I'm pretty sure the answers to the last three questions might be something like..."It depends on the problem."..."What kind of mechanical expertise do you have?"..."How much money do you want to spend for for the repair?"...or "Do you really think you'll find two working Credenza air dampers online?"

Well, if anyone has any information that could be of assistance, I'd really be grateful for the help. In the meantime, the Credenza lid continues to be gently lowered...by hand.

Thanks.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKHdzIL0mLU[/youtube]

gasoline in an ashtray?
bar hands in gasoline?

Suggestions:
1) use a strap wrench instead of a pipe wrench to avoid marring surfaces;
2) soak the leathers in neatsfoot oil instead of gasoline; leather loves it, and it's not a fire hazard. Chances are the neatsfoot will restore pliability without having to remove the metal washer and reverse the leather flange.

wjw wrote:[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKHdzIL0mLU[/youtube]

This is fantastic! Tells me all I need to know. Thanks for sharing your expertise, and for your help.
Bruce

Henry wrote:Suggestions:
1) use a strap wrench instead of a pipe wrench to avoid marring surfaces;
2) soak the leathers in neatsfoot oil instead of gasoline; leather loves it, and it's not a fire hazard. Chances are the neatsfoot will restore pliability without having to remove the metal washer and reverse the leather flange.

Or at least use some penetrating oil and then cover the jaws with a rag. If the tube gets crushed, it's toast.

Would it not be possible to just cut new leathers from suitable stock? I've restored dampers, however I did not flip them over. I'm curious if that is a fact that the leathers were flat discs when originally installed at the factory.

I know this guy and he did a great job restoring the credenza, watch the rest of his videos on YouTube, he does the whole machine from restoring the cabinet to regressing the motor, and he has a VE model as well.

I vote for the neatsfoot; that's how I restored mine. You also have to occasionally put a few drops in the cylinders to keep the pads pliable. Making the adjustment at the bottom is easy once the pads are restored.

Hi,
I had the same problem. The Neatsfoot Oil works just give it a few days to do it's work. Goood Luck !

Just another tip about lubrication. I never use WD-40! I prefer "Power Lube," formerly badged "CRC-556" and used by auto mechanics, among many others. It's available at most hardware stores in aerosol cans. It's a penetrating lubricant, good for stuck bolts/nuts such as the threaded plug at the end of the Credenza lid damper. While we're at it, I would point out that the leather plunger mechanism is very similar to the one on the pump mechanism of Coleman liquid-fueled lanterns. It too benefits from a squirt of oil periodically. To another point raised WRT the Credenza leather, I have a spare never-used leather for my Coleman and it is already cup-shaped. (Good thing I bought it years ago, as this type of Coleman lantern is no longer made AFAIK. I keep my single-mantle red [!] Coleman in my camp as a spare light.)