There are four basic factors concerning tone-arm geometry and record wear:
1) Tracking weight ( weight of soundbox as measured at steel needle at point-of-contact on playing surface ). I believe I once read somewhere that a Victor Exhibition on a "skinny" taper-tube has a tracking weight of about 5 ounces (?) ( not sure on that spec, and I don't have a way to measure it right now )
2) Angle of incidence between needle and playing surface: for lateral-cut records, 60 degrees is considered good.
3) Tracking Arc of needle across playing surface. Ideally, when playing a record, the needle should track across the record at right-angles to the record groove at point of contact. The only machines that do this are Edison Diamond Disc players, a few other obscure wind-up machines, and higher-end late-model "linear-tracking" turntables. For the majority of disc record players, the tone-arm is mounted on a pivot, and swings across the record in an arc. The better designs design the arm and pivot location so as to keep the needle travel as close to a right-angle to the groove walls as possible, for the majority of its travel across the playing surface.
The standard rule of thumb is that holding the sound-box with the needle just above the playing surface, swing the assembly across the turntable towards the center spindle: the needle arc should swing through the spindle, or come very close.
If the needle travel arc falls significantly beyond, or short of the spindle, either condition will cause accelerate wear on the groove walls.
4) Lateral force required for groove/needle to "pull" soundbox across record. Again, I don't have a "specification" for this, but it should be "as little as possible". The various "yielding-pressure" tone-arms designed to dodge Victor patents may cause excessive resistance to the needle and groove. Making sure the machine is as level as possible is also a big help...
Just as a ball-park guide, the arm should swing freely from side to side of its own weight, as the mount is slightly tilted from side to side. There should be no "bumps" or binds through the range of motion.
Does your Heinemann arm move any easier with the spring widgets removed ?
A ball-bearing-mounted Victor arm with the top-pin is one of the better arms of the era...
Before modifying your machine, see if it's possible to do so without permanently altering the machine.
If changing the taper-tube requires cutting / drilling / modifying permanent parts of the machine, better-off finding a Victor for yur regular listening...
That's my thoughts on the subject...
