The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Hello to everyone.

I've read in the current CLPGS Magazine these words, with regard to a Decca portable:
"...there was much hardened grease everywhere. So I dismantled the motor, soaked the parts in white spirit and boiled the spring barrel in water for an hour (a tip I learned years ago from an old engineer: often very effective and often obviates the need to remove the spring). Then everything was scrubbed and cleaned firther in hot water, whence the parts were dried, re-assembled ad gears greased and oiled. The spring now winds easily and a full record side plays perfectly and all the way through. Each use has made the operation much easier, as the grease is re-distribued around the spring barrel..."

What do you thing about this practice?

I would not do it in my machines. The barrels are not tight (evidenced by the amounts of grease often found on their outer surfaces, and water will penetrate in their interior and eventually corrode the springs. In short term the heat will dissolve the hardened grease and release the spring, but as time goes by the water will reduce spring life. What I have done once with good result was to heat up the barrel in an oven at its minimum heat for some time, evidently when the family was away. Be careful to put the barrel in a plate and wrap it tight in aluminum foil to contain eventual evaporation inside, otherwise the melted grease will drip in the oven, leading to domestic catastrophe and confinement of the collector to an institution by his concerned family.

I have never been tempted to try either method, but common sense suggests that spring steel should be kept well away from water.

To heat up the barrel in an oven seems a good idea!

I never thought about this before until I read this. Has anyone tried using Carbon tetrachloride? My sons father in law, a college professor, uses it to clean mny things like electrical appliances. It contains no water and acts as a great cleaning agent. Any thoughts?

Rich Gordon

I would not do it. Some steels will develop a light haze of rust just a short time after exposure to really hot water. Voice of experience here! I used to shoot black powder muzzleloading rifles. As you may know, black gun powder is so corrosive that the gun barrels need to cleaned ASAP after shooting. Black powder residue is water soluble and it is common to clean barrels with cold soapy water and/or water-based solvents. Well, I tried pouring boiling water down the barrels to dissolve any last vestiges of powder residue. I immediately noticed a light rust and learned a lesson about some steels.

My dad used to clean off nasty motorcycle chains in hot oil, a practice that might be dangerous but not harmful to steel.

rgordon939 wrote:I never thought about this before until I read this. Has anyone tried using Carbon tetrachloride? My sons father in law, a college professor, uses it to clean mny things like electrical appliances. It contains no water and acts as a great cleaning agent. Any thoughts?

Rich Gordon

I don't think I'll be using CTC. I value my central nervous system.

I cringe whenever I see glass fire grenades perched precariously on a shelf in an antique shop for someone to accidentally drop.

rgordon939 wrote:I never thought about this before until I read this. Has anyone tried using Carbon tetrachloride? My sons father in law, a college professor, uses it to clean mny things like electrical appliances. It contains no water and acts as a great cleaning agent. Any thoughts?

Rich Gordon

In the UK the stuff was sold under the brand name "Thawpit" until legislation on solvent abuse led to it's disappearance from the market.

Although it was intended for the removal of oil and grease stains from fabrics, as children my brothers and I used it as a track cleaner on our model railways. Our father, who was an analytical chemist by profession, did not seem to mind...

I know for a fact that motorcycle tanks are boiled to remove dried up gunk and residue, along with radiators. Radiators are typically aluminum, brass and copper, so they aren't hurt by water, in fact that's what they do - store water. I have de-gunked metal parts using reverse electroysis, water and soda along with 12 volts of current and they do not immediately rust - maybe because of the soda, but need to be treated for rust prevention afterwards. As far as solvents go, carburetor cleaner will remove most dried grease and gunk in a short time, but you need to be careful to keep it away from any finished wood surfaces.

I read that article, and couldn't believe it! I can't think of a better way to introduce rust into a spring and hasten it's breaking.

Barry