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Is this possible? Would it have to be taken apart first? Thanks.

If it's plating, you'll have to take the various pieces apart.

On a similar note, I'd like to get the reproducer on my BC-34 refinished (having accidentally polished it off): is there a good source for a gunmetal solution for brass?

Bill

Nashville Plating.

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Would taking it apart be difficult or a problem?

I suspect the cost of gold plating will exceed the cost of just buying another reproducer. I had a small batch of diamond disc parts (screws, escutcheons, knobs) gold plated last year by Nashville plating and it was over $650. Nashville plating does outstanding work though.
Dave Jolley

Lucius1958 wrote:If it's plating, you'll have to take the various pieces apart.

On a similar note, I'd like to get the reproducer on my BC-34 refinished (having accidentally polished it off): is there a good source for a gunmetal solution for brass?

Bill

Here's one I've used to good effect. I presume it's available over there?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BIRCHWOOD-CAS ... 460fefdc80

Barry

TEXAS PLATING SUPPLY sells a gold brush plating kit for $75, as I recall. You need to buff and polish your reproducer, then use a 3V battery with the brush and gold gel to electroplate it with gold. Then, wash (handling with rubber gloves), and lacquer it to protect the plating. I have done this with great success for years.

Stained glass supply stores sell a product that imparts a dark patina (in reality, I find that it ranges in color from grey through purple/grey to black, depending on the alloy of metal, and the dilution ratio). It's made to blacken solder and lead that is used in stained glass windows, but it works on a wide range of metals including brass, copper, cast iron, steel, nickel plating and zinc. I think its called Novacan Black, costing about $5 for an 8 oz container. Anyway, I dilute with water 50% or more since it works too fast to control the color. The metal must be very clean (no oil or coating of any kind) to get an even finish. Immerse in the diluted solution and observe the color change. Remove as soon as the color is correct. Gently rinse until all chemical is washed away and put aside to dry. Upon removing from the solution, do not touch the treated surface until completely dry. I recommend testing on a scrap or surplus part before actually treating the item you are restoring, in order to adjust the dilution ratio and learn the outcome possibilities. To protect the finish from change, you could optionally coat the finish with Watco Oil (any color) to seal the finish. It takes several weeks for the Watco Oil to cure, and warming it in sunlight or other low temperature heat (around 100 to 140 degrees) hastens the cure time. PS, I've used this product nearly full strength to recoat the oxidized finish on a Victor R with good results, although it takes some patience. Russie Ofria