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Looks very restorable and even has the Duncan Stop Reproducer and some wire left! Bidding starts at $5.95. Pickup in Brooklyn Park, Minnesota! Even if no on on here gets it, I would think the info from the pictures could contribute to the C19/C250 Database that is being compiled.

http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Vt ... 78912.html

Oceangoer1 wrote:Looks very restorable and even has the Duncan Stop Reproducer and some wire left! Bidding starts at $5.95. Pickup in Brooklyn Park, Minnesota! Even if no on on here gets it, I would think the info from the pictures could contribute to the C19/C250 Database that is being compiled.

http://www.shopgoodwill.com/auctions/Vt ... 78912.html

I never thanked you for this; "Thanks".

I recorded it in my database.

Sold for $22.86, wow, someone got a great deal.

Pictures for posterity:
Best,
Fran

Sure thing! If I didn't already have a C250 I would have bid on it! But someone really did get a great deal on that

I picked it up, sitting in the garage currently. Haven't had time to look at the C250 database to figure out what numbers and such to grab off of it yet. It's in pretty rough shape (water damage, and no veneer on the back), but the motor appears good, and the reproducer is decent, played the record it came with. Still have to figure out how the Duncan stop is supposed to be wired, and how it functions.

thatonejohn wrote:I picked it up, sitting in the garage currently. Haven't had time to look at the C250 database to figure out what numbers and such to grab off of it yet. It's in pretty rough shape (water damage, and no veneer on the back), but the motor appears good, and the reproducer is decent, played the record it came with. Still have to figure out how the Duncan stop is supposed to be wired, and how it functions.

Hello thatonejohn,

I wrote an extensive article on the Edison Electric Automatic Stop (AKA the "Duncan Stop") for the Antique Phonograph Society; you can read it on their website, here: http://www.antiquephono.org/edison-auto ... tric-stop/.

I explain the history and theory behind its function, and with photographs of the various components of the system I explain how the system was designed to work.

Originally, all of the circuit contact points were nicely gold plated, and as is with all electrical circuits, corrosion is the enemy, so you need to make sure all the contact points are clean. Also, a specifically modified EAS Reproducer is necessary, so make sure you have the right one.

In my article, I show the proper EAS Reproducer, break it down into it's individual electrical parts, and explain how it was designed to functioned.

The battery that was most likely used (the literature was not as specific as we might like) was the "No.6 Ignition Cell" which would have put out around 1.5V, and it's amperage probably varied greatly with the manufacturer. It's my understanding that some folks have successfully used variable DC output power supplies like you might find used for small scale train setups of the appropriate output voltage -- even so-called "wall-warts" could be used. The trouble with these would be that pesky cord. Alternatively, 4 "D" cells in a parallel configuration, might provide enough current to energize the EAS, to make it reliably function.

After cleaning and checking the components, you would likely need to do a little experimentation with the actual voltage and amperage to get the system to function properly. My assumption is that 2-4VDC at about 1-2 amps should be more than sufficient. I've gotten the solenoid to close with a single standard modern "D" cell, but I haven't tried this "in circuit" installed on a Phonograph, and I doubt it would provide enough current to reliably function.

I'd love to have a rational detailed discussion on the electric automatic stop observed, to see what works in the real world.

If you wish to restore yours to working order, my guide can certainly help you on your way.

Since the writing of the article, I've taken several improved photos of the Reproducer electrical contact points, but I haven't submitted them to George Paul yet to "upgrade" the article on the website. Below are a couple of the photos of the reproducer from the article along with three new photos.

If you haven't recently been to the http://www.antiquephono.org/ webpage, I urge you to check it out! It's a great source of information that has grown quickly with new and highly informative articles appearing frequently.

Oh, and if you haven't already; become a member of the Antique Phonograph Society, the dues are a small price to pay for the volume and value of information the group provides us with.

Best,
Fran

I'd love to have a rational detailed discussion on the electric automatic stop observed, to see what works in the real world.


I had one of those that still worked when I was a kid. It had one of those large round telephone batteries in it for power. I hated it because it would shut off on records that had a lot of WOW in them if it bumped the limit pin the least little bit. And also on mine the rubber tubing on the pin was long gone and I had no idea it was supposed to be there (I must have been about 14-15 at the time) so I would hold the weight with my thumb until I got the record started. But it did shut the thing off right at the end of the record once the weight got released from the grooves. Of course I finally just unhooked the battery because it seemed to be a great nuisance, and didn't use it anymore. It was years later when I found out about that rubber tubing being gone.

It looks like the one Jerry Donnell gave me in 2002.edisonplayer

EarlH wrote:I'd love to have a rational detailed discussion on the electric automatic stop observed, to see what works in the real world.


I had one of those that still worked when I was a kid. It had one of those large round telephone batteries in it for power. I hated it because it would shut off on records that had a lot of WOW in them if it bumped the limit pin the least little bit. And also on mine the rubber tubing on the pin was long gone and I had no idea it was supposed to be there (I must have been about 14-15 at the time) so I would hold the weight with my thumb until I got the record started. But it did shut the thing off right at the end of the record once the weight got released from the grooves. Of course I finally just unhooked the battery because it seemed to be a great nuisance, and didn't use it anymore. It was years later when I found out about that rubber tubing being gone.

That makes sense, Earl. Thanks for your personal experience!

I can see how just the off-center grooves of a record could be a pain in the rear. And if you started to play the record with the reproducer in the blank part of the record at the beginning, I bet the pin would contact the loop and shut it off, too.

I just read in the repair manual how if the horn is bent too far forward, or too far rearward, the limit pin can come in contact with the limit loop as it plays because the horn will travel faster or slower than the reproducer stylus. It seems that there was the potential for a whole slew of troubles.

I can't imagine how frustrating it must have been for folks back then, especially when hardly any of them understood electricity, too.

I restored my C250 with one, and just recently finished putting the reproducer together with a good stylus, so I'm going to try mine out soon. I plan on putting an old Columbia No. 6 battery in the cabinet for looks, and probably make up a battery pack of D cells for the actual power, but I doubt I'll leave the machine powered up.

After all; the safety stop (an integral part of ALL Type B mechanisms) works perfectly, so why bother?

Fran