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Lifted veneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:04 pm
by richardh
I have an issue with one of my cabinets and that is that down one side some of the oak vaneer has lifted and curled up a bit at the edges.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I might fix it.

I had heard that you can remove vaneer by using a hot iron to melt the glue and then lift it. Could I use this technique to melt the glue on the lifted part then weight it down until cooled?

Any suggestions would be very welcome.

thanks

RJ 8-)

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:28 pm
by richardh
Excellent. Thanks Shane. I guess I wanted re-assurance that I wasn't going to turn this cabinet HMV on its side and start ironing it if it wasn't going to work!

thanks again

RJ 8-)

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:37 pm
by Neophone
RJ,

Just be very careful of the finish. I believe you can ruin it if you use to much heat. I believe you are supposed to use a thick towel between the iron and the veneer. Shane am I right?

Regards,
John

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:01 pm
by richardh
Yes, I was going to set it to the non steam setting. Use a medium heat and a towel over the wood itself. I was going to be very careful of the finish

RJ 8-)

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:50 pm
by richardh
Wel this is on my HMV 163 - so its not a varnish....to be honest I'm not sure quite what the finish is actually.

RJ 8-)

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:11 pm
by saxymojo
Hi
If the iron won't work I would not use PVA glue, I prefer to use animal hide glue, it is easier to undo if you need too and this is what was used in the assembly of antiques.

Regards Marcel

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 5:34 pm
by Brad
RJ,

Hyde glue needs to heated in a glue pot so you may be looking at having to invest in some tools just to do this one repair. I have sucessfully tacked down lifted veneer with both PVA glue and super glue (I am not even going to attempt to spell sianoacrylate :?: )

The secret to success regardless on what approach you take is to have clean surfaces to glue. Often with old hyde glue the glue breaks down and crumbles and there is nothing for the glue to bond to. When this is the case I carfully try and slide a small piece of sandpapper between and work some of the crud out and give each surface some tooth.

I couldn't tell from your description if the lifted veneer is along a seam in the field or at the bottom edge. Any glue you put between the veneer and substrate will squeeze out when you clamp it so besure you don't allow it to dry on the surface.

Can you attach a picture of the lifted veneer?

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:41 pm
by saxymojo
Hi
You can buy pre mixed hide glue, it is made in the USA and is readily available in Australia. With this glue you don't need any more tools than what you need for PVA.

Regards Marcel

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 9:14 pm
by RJSoftware
Hide glue is the best glue you could ever hope to use on it. Also, it is the original glue.

Do not use PVA as future repairs to the veneer will be difficult. Hide glue can be heated to be removed.

Don't heat hide glue hotter than 140 degrees else it will lose it's gripping capability.


Hide glue 101

instructions for the granulated kind. Btw, hide glue is actually same thing as gelatin but a different grade.

First decide how much hide glue you need to use. Keep in mind that you can make extra and store it in the refridgerator for long periods of time to be used at your leisure later on.

When you have decided, what you do is mix equal parts of hide glue with cool water, stirring some to make sure well mixed.

Then let the glue set somewhere for a few hours.

The hide glue granuals swell up/thicken.

The next thing you do is heat whatever portion of your mix up to and no more than 140 degrees.

A baby bottle warmer is suppose to work perfectly for this. Also things like a double boiler and candy thermometor.

When the mixture is warm and syrupy, then you can do things like use hypodermic basting needle (got mine at Walmart) and inject the hide glue in razor slit of veneer bubble.

Put a weight on it and once it gels your home free.

The way hide glue gels and the grip it gives once it does is outstanding. Plus it gels slow enough to allow you to play with it a bit before nailing things home.

After it gels and you have your initial grip, you can wipe off the excess easily with damp rag.

Hide glue has to be one of the coolset wood glues you will ever experience.

RAJ

Re: Lifted vaneer

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:28 pm
by Neophone
RAJ,

Thanks for primer, very informative. I would suggest you also might want to cross post that in the Tips Tricks & Technical section as well.

Regards,
John