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I see some of you guys with the motor as clean as the top works. Do you have to take each part off and clean it or can you clean it all at once with a spray of some kind? I think carburetor cleaner or something like that would work?
I probably should have put this in Tips, Tricks and Tutorials?

I am working on restoration of a WWII Jeep and currently my project is to rebuild the carburetor, which has almost as many small, delicate parts as a phono motor. A product called Chem Dip has worked very well, and may be of use in your project: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D ... ge_o08_s00

Note that ChemDip will remove all oil, and possibly be hard on any leather.

Amberola wrote:I see some of you guys with the motor as clean as the top works. Do you have to take each part off and clean it or can you clean it all at once with a spray of some kind? I think carburetor cleaner or something like that would work?
I probably should have put this in Tips, Tricks and Tutorials?

The book "The Compleat Talking Machine" is extremely helpful for virtually all common phonograph questions.

Here's part 1 of a tutorial on how to rebuild a motor. In this case it's a Victor 2 spring, but the basic priciples apply to pretty much any phonograph motor.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R9i7zp-v9s[/youtube]

I was referring to Edison machines. That's all I collect any more.

Warning about Berryman's Chem-Dip:

Unless they've reformulated it in recent years, it contains some nasty stuff ( VOCs, aromatic hydrocarbons, etc.). Do not get it on your skin, and do not let stuff soak longer than overnight w/o checking on it.

I soaked a Rochester B carb (pot-metal )from an old Chevrolet in the stuff for about a week, and it came-out looking very dark and rough-looking.

It will strip paint, don't know what it might do to fibre gears, etc.


Treat it with respect, it's atrong stuff.

When I was working, we had a virasol vat in the shop. I could clean them there but that's old news.

On some of my recent machines, I have used a product called "Krud Kutter" to clean motor parts: it seems to be pretty effective at removing old caked grease and oil.

As for motors: it's best to disassemble them for cleaning: you can get to all parts of the assembly that way. Trying to clean an assembled motor will result in some areas not getting the attention they need.

Bill

Ordinary mineral spirits (paint thinner) works, is widely available. and is relatively inexpensive and safe "when used as directed."

Lucius1958 wrote:On some of my recent machines, I have used a product called "Krud Kutter" to clean motor parts: it seems to be pretty effective at removing old caked grease and oil.

As for motors: it's best to disassemble them for cleaning: you can get to all parts of the assembly that way. Trying to clean an assembled motor will result in some areas not getting the attention they need.

Bill

I knew this would be the correct answer. Thanks guys.

Ronnie-
Out of shear laziness, and a fear of getting my hands dirty, I've used a tank large enough to hold the motor parts and filled it with Chem Dip and covered it. I then placed the whole tub onto one of those vibrating foot baths that used to be so popular....For years you could buy 'em at a yard sale for less than $5! I turned the unit on low, and let it "Ultrasonically" clean my motor parts overnight on the patio--far enough away from the house so as not to disturb anyone. Worked like a charm! Stinky for days, though!
Gets off even the most caked on grease! Probably went through a dozen or so Foot baths doing this, but I swear by it! Great for individual parts or a spring in the barrel with the lid off, or gear boxes. Seal Chem Dip when finished so it doesn't evaporate.
Lazy? Maybe. Clever? Yes!
Stephen