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I have an eary 2 minute wax cylinder that has a tight crack in it. It starts at a chip on the top rim and travels about ⅓ down the cylinder. The cylinder plays very loud and clear. Is there anyway this crack can be stablized?

The only way I know to stabilize a cracked cylinder would be to drill a small hole at the end of the crank, that would keep it from spreading.

I'm a little surprised someone hasn't come up with a method for affixing a thin sheet of non-elastic material, like carbon fiber, to the inside of the cylinder, thereby effectively securing the cylinder from separating at the crack.

A small hole might stop the crack from "spreading" but it would also negate playing it in the affected area, I would think.

Best,
Fran

Back in the 1970s I repaired a few brown wax cylinders by bending a small paper clip to match the curve of the cylinder. (This is easily done in your hands, but each end of the paper clip may require pliers to keep the curve consistent.) I held the cylinder in my hand with the crack directly over my palm. This is to get it warm. (You can put a paper towel between your hand and the cylinder.) Then I heated the paper clip red hot, removed it from the flame, let it cool for about 1-2 seconds, and carefully dropped it into the core of the cylinder so that it spanned the crack. The clip will melt the wax immediately around it and sink right in. I never had one go through, and those 35-40 year-old repairs are still fine.

I made the mistake once of letting the paper clip cool a second or so too long. It barely made it below the surface. Don't be afraid that the clip will be too hot - - the wax cools it very quickly.

This method works on moulded black wax too, but because the material is more brittle, sometimes a stress fracture may occur unless you get the cylinder very warm. I remember preheating a black wax cylinder in the oven with excellent results. I don't remember the temperature, but I would guess about 100-110 degrees F. would do it. A warm room never hurts either - - you want to avoid rapid and extreme temperature changes.

Good luck!

George P.

Phonoboy wrote:The only way I know to stabilize a cracked cylinder would be to drill a small hole at the end of the crank, that would keep it from spreading.

That works well for Blue Amberols, but I doubt it would work well on "wax" cylinders of any kind.

I have put thin strapping tape on the cracked end of a wax cylinder. It does not stabilize the crack, per se, but it does make it far less likely that the crack will spread further when the cylinder is placed on the mandrel.

fran604g wrote:I'm a little surprised someone hasn't come up with a method for affixing a thin sheet of non-elastic material, like carbon fiber, to the inside of the cylinder, thereby effectively securing the cylinder from separating at the crack.

A small hole might stop the crack from "spreading" but it would also negate playing it in the affected area, I would think.

Best,
Fran

I wouldn't risk playing the cracked section for fear of damaging the stylus. For me the cracked section is a total loss, but worth preserving.

I recommend Mike K, The Cylinder Doctor a dentist in California. I have watched him since I was 12 years old, put broken brown wax cylinders together, He uses parts of paper clips in an alcohol flame, in the shape of little staples, and he fills chips in with a special dental wax. You can't fill chips with cylinder wax, as it shrinks when it cools and, most of the time with come out when the stylus goes across it. Yes you need to warm the cylinder up to around 100-110 when repairing cylinders. I would never attempt to fix a wax Amberol, but I have seen the cylinder DR. do this.

Thank you for all the replies. I will try the oven paper clip method and see what happens. Thanks again, Jan

Phonoboy wrote:

fran604g wrote:I'm a little surprised someone hasn't come up with a method for affixing a thin sheet of non-elastic material, like carbon fiber, to the inside of the cylinder, thereby effectively securing the cylinder from separating at the crack.

A small hole might stop the crack from "spreading" but it would also negate playing it in the affected area, I would think.

Best,
Fran

I wouldn't risk playing the cracked section for fear of damaging the stylus. For me the cracked section is a total loss, but worth preserving.

I wouldn't think a tight crack in a wax cylinder would damage the stylus but I guess it is possible. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I don't want to damage a stylus.

phonogal wrote: I wouldn't think a tight crack in a wax cylinder would damage the stylus but I guess it is possible. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as I don't want to damage a stylus.

You're correct - - a smooth-fitting tight crack shouldn't be a problem. Pits, chips, and any crack where a piece of paper can slide in should not be played.

Good luck!

George P.