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Hi,
I just would like to say that my No5 soundboxes (Both A's and B's) have always had a high amount of surface noise from anything other than a soft tone needle and never sound as loud as something like a No4 but I found away around this I don't know why HMV never did it originally I removed the thumb screw, placed the sound box in a thick cloth and tightened it lightly arrow straight in a vice, I then took a 2mm drill bit and drilled into the small "shaft" where the needle goes and drilled down about 3-4mm this greatly improve volume and clarity and remove a lot of the record hiss. And again I don't know why HMV never built the No5's like this originally, with a longer shaft.

Thanks, Jake

You can get the same effect by shortening your needles.

HMV were well aware that the 5A/5B soundboxes produced excessive surface noise, but rather than cure the problem they applied "Close lid whilst playing" transfers inside the lids of their later cabinet and table models. No such instruction appears on their earlier machines. A case of treating the symptoms but not the cause!

Instructions for the VV-XI with Exhibition also advise closing the lid. See attachment, under "Fourth," last sentence:

As noted, shortening the needle, itself, using a heavy duty wire clipper would have the same effect as extending the depth of the shaft--and would have the added advantage of allowing the sound box's original design to remain intact. What it does is increase the distance of the diaphragm's back-and-forth movement as the needle's tip tracks the groove. A side-effect, however, may be increased groove wear, depending on how complaint the diaphragm is, and how freely the needle-bar moves. It can also cause blast and other distortion on louder passages.

Another way to enhance the sound quality, and reduce surface noise, is to simply readjust the needle-bar pivot to allow for maximum compliance. To test for compliance, insert a needle and tighten it. As you do, you should feel the diaphragm flex or plunge slightly. The needle-bar should move as freely as possible in the direction required to track the groove, but should not be loose enough to allow for "side-play," or the movement of the needle-bar in the direction of the pivot's "end-caps". Determining the proper adjustment can take a lot of trial and error, and involves a great deal of patience, but the results are worth it.

HTH,
OrthoFan

OrthoFan wrote:As noted, shortening the needle, itself, using a heavy duty wire clipper would have the same effect as extending the depth of the shaft--and would have the added advantage of allowing the sound box's original design to remain intact. What it does is increase the distance of the diaphragm's back-and-forth movement as the needle's tip tracks the groove. A side-effect, however, may be increased groove wear, depending on how complaint the diaphragm is, and how freely the needle-bar moves. It can also cause blast and other distortion on louder passages.

Another way to enhance the sound quality, and reduce surface noise, is to simply readjust the needle-bar pivot to allow for maximum compliance. To test for compliance, insert a needle and tighten it. As you do, you should feel the diaphragm flex or plunge slightly. The needle-bar should move as freely as possible in the direction required to track the groove, but should not be loose enough to allow for "side-play," or the movement of the needle-bar in the direction of the pivot's "end-caps". Determining the proper adjustment can take a lot of trial and error, and involves a great deal of patience, but the results are worth it.

HTH,
OrthoFan

Right- and this is where a supple, flexible mounting flange is really, really necessary.

Agree on proper adjustment. In fact, I use a bit of heavy duty synthetic automotive grease in the little "cup" where the pivot pin goes as added insurance.

Hi ,
thanks for all the replies but shortening the needles every time you use them would be very tedious and if you do they usually just shoot out across the room when they cut through. Plus I've adjusted the sound boxes and they sound very good on my cabinet machines but I always leave the lid open and watch the record, so for the sake of drilling down 3mm I thinks it's worth it. I also always replace my rear flange with black plumbing silicone. And as of yet I haven't heard any blasting and I have used a couple of elvis 78's with loud tone needles and there's no distortion (I don't usually play 50's 78's on accoustic machines) and it is much louder than the regular 5A or B it's about as loud as a no16 but much more mellow and less harsh. So overall I think a small sacrifice (and if you have an old, battered no5 soundbox around I'd urge you to try it!

Thanks, Jake

12jslater wrote:Hi ,
thanks for all the replies but shortening the needles every time you use them would be very tedious and if you do they usually just shoot out across the room when they cut through. Plus I've adjusted the sound boxes and they sound very good on my cabinet machines but I always leave the lid open and watch the record, so for the sake of drilling down 3mm I thinks it's worth it. I also always replace my rear flange with black plumbing silicone. And as of yet I haven't heard any blasting and I have used a couple of elvis 78's with loud tone needles and there's no distortion (I don't usually play 50's 78's on accoustic machines) and it is much louder than the regular 5A or B it's about as loud as a no16 but much more mellow and less harsh. So overall I think a small sacrifice (and if you have an old, battered no5 soundbox around I'd urge you to try it!

Thanks, Jake

Small Dremel cutting wheel and a vise makes "short" work of it...