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I just purchased a C-250 Edison Diamond Disc phonograph that has a the automatic electric stop. All of the parts appear to be there including the electromechanical device, selenoid and wiring. Has anyone gotten this mechanism to work? Does anyone know what kind of battery and voltage to use and who may have the special reproducer with the socket for the wire connector and the insulation on the limit pin? Thanks!

apruizii wrote:I just purchased a C-250 Edison Diamond Disc phonograph that has a the automatic electric stop. All of the parts appear to be there including the electromechanical device, selenoid and wiring. Has anyone gotten this mechanism to work? Does anyone know what kind of battery and voltage to use and who may have the special reproducer with the socket for the wire connector and the insulation on the limit pin? Thanks!

I have a 1917 C-250 with the mechanism and the reproducer, but I don't have the wire or the battery. I think it requires a 9 volt dry battery to work. I've also heard that it was not a very successful system and only works on about ½ of DD's.

I still have the whole mechanism with the correct reproducer available. Please see my post in the Yankee Trader section.
http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... =9&t=21850

Members of the Antique Phonograph Society have access to an article, Adjusting and Restoring the Edison Electric Automatic Stop, by Francis Pratt. It's in the "Technical" section under the "Articles" tab.

http://www.antiquephono.org.

There's another article on the web site titled, The Edison Electric Automatic Stop, also by Fran Pratt. It's a broader perspective with the history of its development. This article can be found in the "Advanced" section.

Don't attach a 9-volt battery to it. It was designed to work on 1.5 volts. The articles will tell you everything you'd ever want to know.

George P.

Phono-Phan,

I saw your post. I'm primarily interested in the modified reproducer but would also consider the entire electromechanical device including the solenoid, turntable brake stop, start/stop lever with the set screw, and connecting wires. All of these items would be much easier to ship. Please let me know if you would be willing to just sell the items I mentioned.

Thanks!

Let me take a look at the whole thing here and see how easy it would be to remove the items you want.
I heard these are pretty cool when working.
Ken

P.S. Where are you located?

Phono-Phan,

Thanks for looking into the parts. If possible, please also provide other photos of the reproducer to get a better look at it and hopefully to see the insulation around the limit pin.

Thanks.

I'm located in Fairfax, VA.

Phonogfp,

Thanks for referring me to the articles in the web site. The articles are very informative. I ended up hooking up two 1.5 V size D batteries to the wire leads located under the platter and connecting one end of another piece of wire to the connector coming out of the horn and touching the other end to something that is grounded like the finger mechanism and VOILA the pivoting detent lever was energized and disengaged from the start/stop lever to trip the brake lever. So I confirmed that the electromechanical and wiring is working properly. This is really cool!

All I need now is the modified reproducer with the wire socket in the rear and insulated limit pin.