The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Can someone give us a lesson regarding record hold downs? Is there a difference among Berliner, Victor, and Columbia hold downs? Who sells the best reproduction hold downs? (I tried the search feature with poor results. Maybe I need a lesson there also! ) Thanks in advance.

Jerry Blais

They are all different. I don't know the thread sizes. Justin Schaub(JAS Antiques) sells these on ebay.
Harvey Kravitz

I have a record hold down from an early Victor E, that attracts a magnet and a record hold down from an early Victor R that does not attract a magnetic. The Victor E one is very worn nickel and the Victor R one is worn black. They both weigh about the same, so the Victor R one is not aluminum. Not sure why the difference, they both fit each other's machines.

I would really like to revive this thread because ... how to identify an original Hold Down from an old weathered reproduction and exactly What is the way to tell the difference between an original Columbia and Victor has puzzled me for years. If anyone knows if there is an Old thread that explains this , I would appreciate the Link. Or even better, if anyone would show photos of some originals side by side ,that would be greatly appreciated also. I really love this Forum. You guys are Great.
Thanks, Jim.

uncle-jimmy wrote:I would really like to revive this thread because ... how to identify an original Hold Down from an old weathered reproduction and exactly What is the way to tell the difference between an original Columbia and Victor has puzzled me for years. If anyone knows if there is an Old thread that explains this , I would appreciate the Link. Or even better, if anyone would show photos of some originals side by side ,that would be greatly appreciated also. I really love this Forum. You guys are Great.
Thanks, Jim.

I can't answer all of your questions, but I think I can answer one of them. How to tell originals from "weathered" reproductions. First, by "weathered", I take it that you mean artificially weathered, versus an old reproduction that has aged naturally. It can be really hard to tell, but the best method is to look underneath, at the threads. In no weathered reproduction that I've seen, does the maker bother to make the threads look old as well. I've seen REALLY convincing topsides, but the threads are bright, shiny new looking brass or steel. Another tell-tale sign is the felt pad. Most weathered reproductions tend to use old felt, which is a good move, but it's usually cut from an old piece of turntable felt. That's o.k. too, but the cut edge tends to be fresh, sharp and well defined. Not tapered down to nothing at the periphery, as most originals are. However, it may still be an original hold down, with an appropriate looking old piece of felt added. The other thing to look for is the knurl on the knob. Many folks who reproduce these hold downs do not take the effort to accurately duplicate the proper knurl, either in pattern or pitch. Frankly, it's just not easy to buy knurling wheels with those old patterns. Bottom line: with the knurls, you've got know what's truly correct first, then you can judge. Hope that helps some.

By the way, NONE of this is meant as criticism of the current suppliers or manufacturers.

Just checked out JAS Antiques items on eBay. No hold downs there now, but really nice workmanship on their items!

Jerry...Thank you for your response. Your recommendations of what to look for to determine an original from a Fake are very helpful. I use the word Fake because I have absolutely no problem with reproductions that freely acknowledge what they are. Without those who go to the trouble to provide us collectors with fantastic duplicates of items that we might never find otherwise , there would be thousands of incomplete machines around the world that because just of a couple of missing parts , could never be enjoyed. WE should all be very grateful for those individuals.
On the other hand , when we have a special original machine that we really, really want to be able to say "It's 100% Complete and Original" , sometimes that elusive part that we need can cost hundreds of dollars and if we are just Crazy enough to search out that original part, we had better be aware that there Are parts that may be misrepresented as an original and very possible the seller is not even aware that it's a Fake because it's so well disguised and he truly believes that it's original. That is why we have to do our homework ,if for no other reason than our own "peace of mind". So thanks again Jerry for your very appreciated advise.
Jim Maxwell

Since I find that original hold-downs are scarce and expensive, I'd like to get a good repro for my Victor E, and then weather it enough to harmonize with the rest of the machine. Who makes the best repros, and what's the best way to weather the nickel?

Bill

The repro hold downs that I have seen are made in one piece. The only original I own is a two piece item.
Dave

Just saw that ladanjus has record hold down reproductions on ebay again, in case anyone is still looking.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nickel-Plated- ... 6016.l4276 It seems to be a two part design if I'm not mistaken.

Andreas