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... sorry, I can think of no better way to title this post.

I moved into an apt at the converted victor building #17 not too long ago, and while talking to the managers about the place and some of my machines and theirs, the subject came up regarding one of theirs that hasn't been working. it's an early schoolhouse model, VV-XXV, the first version with the fixed shelf and non-removable lid... it's displayed along with a few others in one of the first floor common areas. it's in decent shape overall, although the tray is not original, nor is the reproducer... the problem is the crank is broken. the motor and all else appear functional, though unrestored, but the crank... it's a female crank and the threaded opening is essentially split. squeezing it back together with plyers works, but it doesn't remain shut when you try to use it. has anyone encountered this before? what could possibly cause such damage? serious overcranking? do you think this could be sealed again using jb weld or something of the sort, or is a replacement in order?

on the replacement note, I've tried posting on a couple different sites and I've emailed a few different dealers now, but can't find one... it's a weird size apparently... the opening is larger than that of the cranks used for a IV, V or even a VI... tried them all already.

any help would be most appreciated... I offered to fix this thing for the building thinking it just needed a new spring or something... bah.

Brian,

I once encountered the split-crank problem, and managed to effectively and unobtrusively fix it. I was fortunate in that the escutcheon's bearing - which is the sleeve in the escutcheon that supports the crank - was separated from the escutcheon itself. This made my job pretty simple, but I'll assume that this is not the case with the School machine.

1) Remove the crank and from the machine. If necessary, separate the escutcheon from the escutcheon bearing through which the crank rotates. Positioning the escutcheon face-down on a partially-opened vice and gently tapping the bearing through the escutcheon may work. The escutcheon bearing will not easily nslide/fall off the crank because of the split/expansion at the threaded end.

2) Carefully work the escutcheon bearing as far down over this split as possible. I clamped the crank in a vise and tapped the escutcheon bearing down the shaft of the crank until it forced the threaded end back together. In my case, the end of the crank and the escutcheon bearing were lined up evenly.

3) With a Dremel tool or small hacksaw, carefully cut off the last ⅛" or 3/16" of the escutcheon bearing, to create a small ring at the extreme end of the crank. You don't need much of the escutcheon bearing; a thin ring is all that's necessary. Be careful to cut only as deep as the escutcheon bearing's thickness. You may put a ding or two in the crank, but it won't show.

4) When the last connecting portion of the "ring" is cut away, the escutcheon bearing will slide easily back out to its accustomed position. Re-insert the crank and bearing through the escutcheon, and the machine should wind up and appear as original.

Good luck!

George P.

thanks for the suggestions... and I'm sure they'll be put to good use at some point. but I probably should have been clearer... the split is right at the threaded end where the crank attaches to the motor/winding gear... I was able to remove the crank from the machine easily enough, but fixing the split is another story... luckily, though, I may have found another from ron sitko (he believes the early schoolhouse crank is of the same relative dimensions, just a bit longer, as the crank for the early tabletop VV-X. we'll see if it works.

Brain,

I understood perfectly that the split is at the threaded end of the crank. Evidently my earlier post is too confusing. I'll try the condensed version: Basically, I suggested that you slide the sleeve that rides in the escutcheon down around that split end. Tap it down so it forces the split back together. Then cut off the last bit of the sleeve (NOT the crank!) so it remains as a collar or ring around the split end of the crank. I did this 30 years ago on a Victrola XVI and the crank continues to work fine.

George P.

ah... well, that makes perfect sense. sorry for the confusion.

I had actually considered a similar remedy, but unfortunately the sleeve/ring in the escutcheon is missing. it's actually not the perfect example of this model. it's in very nice shape overall (even the oak horn), but is missing, for example, the proper tray (someone has substituted another, perhaps from a desk, and the color is off as is the size), the proper reproducer, etc. and unfortunately it's also in a common area where it can be as easily appreciated as it can be mistreated... and the latter tends to be the more frequent occurrence, I think.

in any event, if the replacement crank doesn't work, I'll try to find another escutcheon with the sleeve/ring in order to attempt the repair we've been discussing.

thanks again.

You're welcome - and good luck!