The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I have always been fascinated by these, but I have been hesitant about getting one because I dont know much about them. They were reproduced in the 1980s and I am looking for some tips on how to tell a real one from the made up ones. Is this too complicated to discuss here?

Which parts are still available if I run into a project machine? For example, I saw one recently that needed glass, but did not know if that was hard to find or not.

Any experts care to offer some tips on these?
Thanks!
Dave D

Well, I'm no expert, but a new cabinet can often be distinguished from an old one by the wood grain. Old-growth oak used in cabinets of the time tended to have a tighter grain, whereas new oak (and that used in cheaper cabinets of the time) has more open grain. It often has not been properly filled and finished.

The data plates of reproductions often lack the "S" of the "BS" designation. Any serial number below around 145,000 would be a red flag because the BS wasn't available before that point.

The metal coin-op parts of a reproduction will probably show absolutely no rust, nor flaking of the nickel. That, of course, is desirable, but only if the rest of the parts are in the same condition. Nice shiny coin-op parts on an aged playing mechanism is something to be wary of. The crank is exposed, so there should be some associated grunge or oxidation to the slip-clutch, and/or wear to the black-painted wooden handle, however slight.

Check the underside of any suspect BS. There should be signs of the passing decades...

That's about all I can offer.

George P.

Dave-

I still have mine available for sale in the Yankee Trader. It's an all original machine except that I personally made a new sign board. Most often, these sign boards are missing. As Paul stated, the reproduction cases and sign boards stick out and are pretty obvious just by looking at grain patterns. That's why I made my own. I wanted a closer match with correct corner construction. The bright nickel plating of new parts should also be pretty obvious.

But note that when you find machines (complete or otherwise) with significant wear, rust, and nickel loss on the components, they can have long term problems with adjustment and operation of all the moving parts. Many times these machines are taken apart by unsuspecting owners in attempts to try and fix the mechanisms and then some parts are lost in the process.

So finding a complete and original machine in good working order is important.

-Mark

Mark,
I saw that and would love to buy it, but I am not quite ready at this point. I am just trying to gain some knowledge in case a good deal comes my way. Good luck with your sale.
Dave