I ended up feeling sorry for that VV-360 in Michigan.
Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:38 am
You know how you get sucked into a project because you feel kind of bad for some of this stuff that's barely survived, so I went to Michigan over the weekend and brought home this VV-360 from over there. They young folks that owned it just had a baby girl a week ago now, and are very nice. I'm really glad I decided to make the drive, but I've never seen so much salt on the roads as the do over there along lake Michigan. Man, that was almost like driving on a gravel road, but it was rock salt and sand! I thought Iowa was salt and brine crazy, but the roads weren't too bad, even though it was snowing pretty hard for about 50-60 miles.
I guess these 360's are pretty scarce so it's worth putting back together. After I get the door panels flattened out I can re-veneer the doors and I'll also have to re-veneer both sides as well. My brother can help me route the details back on the doors and route an edge for a new lid panel. The one side is pretty much shot and I'll have to do both sides, so they match after it's refinished. At least the veneer on the back is ok. The serial number is 1275 and if they really only sold 3-4 hundred of them, it makes me wonder if Victor started the serial numbers over at say, 1200 so they knew which one's were sold at the 60% discount they offered after the orthophonic machines were introduced? It makes me wonder what sort of warranty differences they might have offered by taking such a drastic cut in price, and that might be where some of these serial numbers that don't make sense fit in. A friend of mine has a late XVIII with a high serial number like that, and it might have been part of that program as well.
It's too bad there isn't a place like the reed organ society has done, where you can just post pictures of your Victrola with the serial numbers, with no personal information, so there would be a data base like that for reference. Looking at pictures of 3,500 Victrola X's might be kind of an interesting thing, especially if you could sort them by serial number.
Anyway, the lid is completely apart on this machine as well, and that's the first time I've been able to take a Victrola lid apart. The board on the top of the lid needs to be replaced as it's cupping really badly. Victor did a nice job of putting those lids together and the joint at the top of the lid where the side pieces go in, is really tightly fit together. There's not too much evidence that this thing was actually wet, but it was certainly somewhere that was really damp for a long time. Probably a basement that didn't have much air circulation. The guy I bought it from said it came from a household auction in Grand Rapids and it had been in that house for a long, long time. The paper label on the bottom is gone, but the veneer on the bottom is all there, just loose.
It's really a well made cabinet. Victor used those STUPID wedge splines in the tops of the leg dowels also. I'll take some pictures of that and post them eventually. If you need to take the leg base apart on one of these things they will drive you nuts because there's no way to see what's holding the leg in place even though it might be loose. I'll finish knocking the bottom of the case off this cabinet when I get ready to veneer the sides, and then I'll know for sure if you can see the tops of the dowels with the base removed. That's not quite as bad as those wedge joints where the split the dowel, put a wedge in there and when you drive the leg in place it spreads the dowel out making it nearly impossible to get the legs loose if they need to be re-glued. A really frustrating situation.
So, it looks like my glue pot will be getting a work-out one of these days. Haha! It's been awhile since I've done this much veneering on a project and I'll probably remember why once I get started on this one.....
I guess these 360's are pretty scarce so it's worth putting back together. After I get the door panels flattened out I can re-veneer the doors and I'll also have to re-veneer both sides as well. My brother can help me route the details back on the doors and route an edge for a new lid panel. The one side is pretty much shot and I'll have to do both sides, so they match after it's refinished. At least the veneer on the back is ok. The serial number is 1275 and if they really only sold 3-4 hundred of them, it makes me wonder if Victor started the serial numbers over at say, 1200 so they knew which one's were sold at the 60% discount they offered after the orthophonic machines were introduced? It makes me wonder what sort of warranty differences they might have offered by taking such a drastic cut in price, and that might be where some of these serial numbers that don't make sense fit in. A friend of mine has a late XVIII with a high serial number like that, and it might have been part of that program as well.
It's too bad there isn't a place like the reed organ society has done, where you can just post pictures of your Victrola with the serial numbers, with no personal information, so there would be a data base like that for reference. Looking at pictures of 3,500 Victrola X's might be kind of an interesting thing, especially if you could sort them by serial number.
Anyway, the lid is completely apart on this machine as well, and that's the first time I've been able to take a Victrola lid apart. The board on the top of the lid needs to be replaced as it's cupping really badly. Victor did a nice job of putting those lids together and the joint at the top of the lid where the side pieces go in, is really tightly fit together. There's not too much evidence that this thing was actually wet, but it was certainly somewhere that was really damp for a long time. Probably a basement that didn't have much air circulation. The guy I bought it from said it came from a household auction in Grand Rapids and it had been in that house for a long, long time. The paper label on the bottom is gone, but the veneer on the bottom is all there, just loose.
It's really a well made cabinet. Victor used those STUPID wedge splines in the tops of the leg dowels also. I'll take some pictures of that and post them eventually. If you need to take the leg base apart on one of these things they will drive you nuts because there's no way to see what's holding the leg in place even though it might be loose. I'll finish knocking the bottom of the case off this cabinet when I get ready to veneer the sides, and then I'll know for sure if you can see the tops of the dowels with the base removed. That's not quite as bad as those wedge joints where the split the dowel, put a wedge in there and when you drive the leg in place it spreads the dowel out making it nearly impossible to get the legs loose if they need to be re-glued. A really frustrating situation.
So, it looks like my glue pot will be getting a work-out one of these days. Haha! It's been awhile since I've done this much veneering on a project and I'll probably remember why once I get started on this one.....