The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

It's a mahogany A-250 with a slightly rough (not alligatored) finish. I've cleaned it with that New Life Furniture Masque and it made a nice difference.

I've read where some of you use 0000 steel wool. Do you use that with either Goop or New Life? If so, what technique/precautions do you use? Do you follow that up with anything and, if so, what?

Thanks.

I use Goop (no pumice) and 000 or 0000 steel wool. Gentle on the steel wool, it can only do so much before going through the finish. I use a lot of goop!

Thanks! Anyone else?

Jwb88 wrote:I use Goop (no pumice) and 000 or 0000 steel wool. Gentle on the steel wool, it can only do so much before going through the finish. I use a lot of goop!

I do the same, using Kotton Klenser, rubbing with the grain. You do not want to be too aggressive. Just remove the crud.

I am not familiar with the New Life product.

Clay

The "New Life" stuff is essentially just like non-pumice Goop, although I'm sure there are differences in their makeup.

The other difference is, of course, cost and availability. You can run right out and get goop almost anywhere.

I bought Kotton Kleanser Protective Wood Feeder and used it on one thing. Admittedly my experience with the product is limited, but that's because it has since sat in my garage on the shelf. I wasn't impressed, even after letting it "feed" in overnight. I like goop better. And if the finish is worn or missing, I'm a fan of waxes, but I know some would justifiably disagree (waxes can attract dust more and they are kind of like another finish over the existing one). I just recently tried Briwax and wow, it's fantastic. I will have to find the time to try it out more, but I did the top lid of a phonograph and it really brought back color and shine.

Hi Marty,
I use the New Life Furniture Masque with bronze wool. Steel wool can react with the natural tannins in the wood and shellac causing black marks or spots; especially with oak and walnut but also mahogany on occasion. If you want more shine than the New Life and bronze wool gives, you can rub out the finish with sandpaper and rubbing oil. I would start with 1000 grit then go to 1200 or 1500 grit. Pumice and rottenstone can be used after that if you want a mirror finish. You can finish with a wax if you like but be careful, many waxes contain oil (lemon, orange, etc) which can soak into bare wood and cause dark spots which cannot be removed. Finishes, whether they are shellac, lacquer, varnish or modern polyurethane, are sealers; they seal the wood. Oil cannot penetrate these finishes to "feed" the wood. If you have areas where the finish is cracked or missing, oil can penetrate causing darks spots and streaks. This is why the finest conservators never use any oils in the restoration and preservation of fine furniture.
I have found that Edison Disc machines tend to have rather thin finishes so don't be overly aggressive. The most important commodity of this whole process patience. You cannot rush. Take your time and enjoy bringing the finish back to life!
Roy Margenau

JWB and Roy. Thanks. Great advice!