The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I just became the proud owner of a brunswick! It works pretty well but the sound can be a little buzzy. I think it needs new reproducer gaskets. The original ones are close to 100 years old now. The reproducer is an Ultona. The kind with only one diaphragm. I tried to get the four screws off that secure the diagram every way I could think of without luck. I used different sized screw drivers, heat, and some oil. Wouldn't budge. The only thing I really acomplished was boogering up the screws some. Any advice for options on how to get the gasket out?

I had the same problem with getting the screws out a while ago. I eventually drilled the heads off of the stuck ones and used tiny vice grips to unscrew the stub sticking out. McMaster Call had new ones but I can't recall the size. You'd probably need a dial caliper or micrometer to figure it out.

Bob1123 wrote:I just became the proud owner of a brunswick! It works pretty well but the sound can be a little buzzy. I think it needs new reproducer gaskets. The original ones are close to 100 years old now. The reproducer is an Ultona. The kind with only one diaphragm. I tried to get the four screws off that secure the diagram every way I could think of without luck. I used different sized screw drivers, heat, and some oil. Wouldn't budge. The only thing I really acomplished was boogering up the screws some. Any advice for options on how to get the gasket out?

Don't just use regular oil, you need penetrating oil. The best thing to use is PB Blaster. Take the parts outside and saturate them with Blaster, then leave them alone for a few hours and try again.

PB Blaster does work well, but it always make me nauseous. I use it as a last resort.
Dave D

Why not try Kroil products? The stuff's expensive but does the job without the reek. It's a great cleanser too.

I think I've boogered the screws beyond penetrating products/screwdrivers at this point.

I eventually drilled the heads off of the stuck ones and used tiny vice grips to unscrew the stub sticking out. McMaster Call had new ones but I can't recall the size. You'd probably need a dial caliper or micrometer to figure it out.

How did drilling the heads off allow you get vice grips on your screws? Do you mean you backed the screws out a little with a left handed bit, then used vice grips the rest of the way?

Can you post pics of the screw heads? I might have an idea.

I did a number on them.

This is sort of unrelated but still about the Ultona: is the gold part under the diaphragm supposed to have that darker edge or should it be all "gold"? I'm working on one now and was going to refinish it in all "gold." And while we're at it, the tone arm and other parts were "gold' and need refinishing. Any suggestions on what to use?

Thanks.

Marty Bufalini wrote:This is sort of unrelated but still about the Ultona: is the gold part under the diaphragm supposed to have that darker edge or should it be all "gold"? I'm working on one now and was going to refinish it in all "gold." And while we're at it, the tone arm and other parts were "gold' and need refinishing. Any suggestions on what to use?

Thanks.

All the ultonas I have seen have that brownish finish. The ones that look golden were stripped and expose the brass . Also the external finish as far as I know is always nickel, even on the ones fitted to golden arms.