Victor V Restoration
Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 10:11 am
I am in the process of restoring a Victor V. My goal in restoration is to have a visitor question whether the finish is original or refinished. Personally, that is the ultimate compliment. I tried to make comments with each photo. I apologize for the fact that I failed to take an "as found" photo of the Victor V. I was so anxious to attack the sad little Victor and make it look proud again. I realized my mistake as I took the last few metal bits off the cabinet. My general rules for refinishing are:
1- Disassemble the machine as much as possible.
2- I used "Clean Strip" which I purchased at a local store. I think about any brand of stripper is fine. The stripper was applied generously with an old 1.5" paint brush. The temperature needs to be at least 60 degrees for paint remover to work at its best. The same is true for spray lacquer or paints. I worked the finish with a fairly course steel wool. I work on one side at a time. I followed that with a second round of stripper and a slightly less course grade of steel wool. When the old finish is basically removed I go over it with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol. I have some old dental tools which help me remove unwanted gunk from tight spots on the cabinet. I continue to clean with 0000 steel wool and alcohol until it is clean and ready for stain.
3-Please note that I have not mentioned the use of sandpaper! About the only time I use sandpaper is when I use wood filler to repair a major blemish. A stripped cabinet will retain a good amount of the color from the factory stain. That is good. It is too easy to sand through that factory color to white wood. It is impossible to sand tight spots or pieces like corner columns. When I am finished stripping I want to see uniform color on all pieces of the cabinet. When using sandpaper you risk blotchy color on your cabinet.
4- I like Constantines stain. The colors look good and the product penetrates the wood.
5- I wear throw away rubber gloves when working with chemicals as well as eye protection.
6- I'd like to think that I am not quick to strip and refinish. But everyone has their own threshold when it comes to refinishing. This Victor V was just tired looking and, in my opinion, needed to be freshened up a bit. I love the end results.
Jerry Blais
1- Disassemble the machine as much as possible.
2- I used "Clean Strip" which I purchased at a local store. I think about any brand of stripper is fine. The stripper was applied generously with an old 1.5" paint brush. The temperature needs to be at least 60 degrees for paint remover to work at its best. The same is true for spray lacquer or paints. I worked the finish with a fairly course steel wool. I work on one side at a time. I followed that with a second round of stripper and a slightly less course grade of steel wool. When the old finish is basically removed I go over it with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol. I have some old dental tools which help me remove unwanted gunk from tight spots on the cabinet. I continue to clean with 0000 steel wool and alcohol until it is clean and ready for stain.
3-Please note that I have not mentioned the use of sandpaper! About the only time I use sandpaper is when I use wood filler to repair a major blemish. A stripped cabinet will retain a good amount of the color from the factory stain. That is good. It is too easy to sand through that factory color to white wood. It is impossible to sand tight spots or pieces like corner columns. When I am finished stripping I want to see uniform color on all pieces of the cabinet. When using sandpaper you risk blotchy color on your cabinet.
4- I like Constantines stain. The colors look good and the product penetrates the wood.
5- I wear throw away rubber gloves when working with chemicals as well as eye protection.
6- I'd like to think that I am not quick to strip and refinish. But everyone has their own threshold when it comes to refinishing. This Victor V was just tired looking and, in my opinion, needed to be freshened up a bit. I love the end results.
Jerry Blais
- but I don't think shellac was used on any USA built disc machines as a rule- was it? I'm sure there's an exception, but I don't recall ever seeing one unless it was refinished.