The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

I've brought home my new 10-35 changer which I'm really enjoying tinkering with. My brother and I have gotten the changer working fairly well, but I feel like the sound quality is falling a bit flat. This is using a sound box that sounds good on my 8-7 with wooden horn. Where am I supposed to make sure it is sealed? I used a good amount of grease when reattaching the horn to the changer, although I didn't remove the tone arm and add more grease there. I do have to take it apart again because the eccentric trip is not working at the end (I didn't notice while it was out and apart ), and I will seal around the tone arm. Anywhere else?

Thanks!
Greg

Apparently, Victor didn't do a great job with the horn's seams, as this video "leak test" shows:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0Gq5wkBkm8

You could try calking all the seams--or at least the ones you can reach--with clear silicone calk to see if that makes a difference.

OrthoFan

OrthoFan wrote:Apparently, Victor didn't do a great job with the horn's seams, as this video "leak test" shows:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0Gq5wkBkm8

You could try calking all the seams--or at least the ones you can reach--with clear silicone calk to see if that makes a difference.

OrthoFan

An interesting and a bit weird video. I loved the piano arrangement of music from Der Rosenkavalier by Richard Strauss underscoring the water though...

I’ll get a look at sealing the horn seams. Now what is the general consensus on metal horns vs wood? Am I just used to wood horns with more bass, and that’s why I feel like something is off?

Before you get into horn stuff, make sure all the tonearm seals are airtight, I use plumber's grease, but any good grease will do. This includes the elbow swivel, make it just tight enough for the elbow to move up and down, same with the base. I've never seen a metal ortho horn with issues other than the one Carsten posted a video about. I suppose it's possible you could have a horn issue, but I doubt it. A couple of other members here also have 10-35s, so perhaps they'll chime in as well. The metal horn does have a brighter sound, but you'll still get decent bass response.

PS - your needles went in yesterday's mail!

Sean

I concur with Sean regarding metal vs wood horns. I have several Credenzas and a VV 8-9 and HMV 163. The latter both have metal horns. The Credenza, of course, has the wood horn. I prefer the "brighter" sound of the metal horned machines (more midrange), whereas the Credenza -- to me at least -- has a "warmer" sound. It's a personal preference I suppose or what you are used to.

I remember when I was buying stereo components in the 1970s. The salesman said there were "east coast speakers" and "west coast speakers." The east coast speakers were supposedly more accurate, but the west coast speakers had more pronounced bass. Listening to them in the showroom seemed to confirm what he said. I opted for the so-called east coast speakers as I primarily listen to classical symphonic music. Again, it's based on personal preference.

OrthoFan wrote:Apparently, Victor didn't do a great job with the horn's seams, as this video "leak test" shows:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0Gq5wkBkm8

You could try calking all the seams--or at least the ones you can reach--with clear silicone calk to see if that makes a difference.

OrthoFan

Be careful in your selection of silicone caulk..a lot of it is corrosive to metal as it out gasses and you will have a rusted mess in no time.

Wouldn't beeswax work just fine, if it were kneaded into ropes and pressed in while warmed by a hair dryer?

What about flexible weatherstrip caulk, such as Mortite or similar? It's like a modeling clay, comes in rolls, used to seal around cracks. It's removable and reusable. Here's one source (note: this is not an endorsement, just a suggestion!): https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... ocQAvD_BwE

Another source: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Frost-King-I ... ZAQAvD_BwE

These metal horns used on the 8-8, 8-9. 8-35 and 10-35 are all the same and interchangeable. Again, I've never encountered one that had open seams, never, and I've owned a number of them over the past 35 years and I've worked on many more. I just can't imagine this is where Greg's problem lies. Generally air air leak in the tonearm itself or one where the horn mouth meets the cabinet would most likely be the problem. I'd also be sure that the reproducer fits snugly on the end of the tonearm, a little plumber's tape will ensure a snug fit. Again, I'd encourage checking the easy stuff first, sometimes we over think things when there's no need to.

Sean