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I also had to do some gramophone work today, and want opionons. I came across this HMV 103 6 months ago, and the seller then wanted 150 euro for it, it was of course of no interest. At the time I thought it was a model 109, and I wanted the gramophone only for the 32 motor, since I learned the hard way last autumn, while restoring a 109, and lost the small metal part in the motor that prevents the winding key from returning when winding up the motor. Two days ago, during the daytime, the seller sent me a sms after 6 months (!) and said I could have it for 20 euro. Since I on that particular day, on that particular time, by car was exactly in the area of this gramophone ( which in itself is a strange coincidence, since I very rarely visit this region), I accepted the offer. I picked it up, knowing it was very ugly in advance, and also full of rust. When returning home I quickly realized it was not a 109, and also when checking the book, it did not have a 32 motor inside. When opening the motor today, it has a 425 or 426 motor, a motor I have not seen before but recognize from the photos in the book and also the fact that the spring container is closed with screws. When realizing this, I was close to keep only the motor and the first generation Soundbox no 4, (and put the rest in a container waiting for better days) but then I heard "Soundgen's" words in my head..."no gramophone is ready for the garbage dump, it is only a matter of determination and time!"
After another look at the dirty and unattractive gramophone, I made a quick decision. I wanted to give it a try, in particular also because I could not really see any big problems in the wood case, and even if the turntable was very rusty, (and I also spent a long time to be able to remove it, the motor looks good, no rust at all.
So why do I write this, well, I hope that also newbies in gramophone restoration maybe can get inspired, and acknowledge that it is possible to restore even a gramophone like this, even if one is inexperienced. It is not yet a year since I started to teach myself how to service a gramophone, and I remember well the first time I opened a spring container, it took me some days to prepare myself mentally to do it, after watching some excellent videos online on how to do it.
I also write this, to possibly save some more gramophones from ending up on a bonfire etc. Even if I love gramophones, I was close to allow this gramophone to end its days in a storage container, or even worse...throw the wooden case to the garbage bin. It is a big shame, really. So this thread, can also be seen as a warning. Give the gramophone a second chance, maybe next day you will think differently, if you have already decided to drop it.
All that said, I am now uploading some photos..before and after, and also attach some photos of the motor, since it is a bit different than the motors found in most HMV portables etc.
I also would like an opinion from the HMV experts, what do you think about the woodwork (oak) after I have worked on it today? Is it too dark, or ? I really would appreciate any opinion, negative or positive. If it is negative, I will know that this procedure is not optimal for the early dark oak HMV floor models and tabletops, if it is positive...well then this can be used to save also future machines, possibly without always needing to strip them etc. I always find restoration/repairs of woodwork the biggest challenge when restoring a gramophone.
I know this is not a valuable model, but it is still a HMV gramophone, and one gramophone saved, is one gramophone given a longer lifecycle.. .

PS. The veneer on the lid will be glued, of course:;)
PS2. The woodwork has on the photo taken at my sitting room table received one layer of polish/wax after being cleaned and refinished.On the photo taken outdoors a refinish product have been added, but no wax/polish yet.

What a difference! Looks good to me. Great job!

Andreas

Looks incredible and I love the color. If you were not planning to glue the open joint at the left front corner, I might suggest you consider doing so. Such a nice refinish deserves a nice tight cabinet.

Yes--clamping & gluing joints makes these old things look better too.

Thanks for saving it. This is a really beautiful machine even in its simplicity (or perhaps, because of its simplicity.) The No. 4 soundbox, elegantly curving tone arm, and dignified austerity of oak make it something truly beautiful. We do not see them often in the United States; I like how it is turning out and your post ought to be saved as a word of warning for collectors.

Thank you.

Nice job. Good restoration so far.

I acquired an HMV 103 about 10 years ago. It was in better shape than yours cosmetically, but the motor was seized. I took it apart, cleaned and lubricated the motor and overhauled the soundbox, and it played fine. I eventually replaced the tired mainspring, and it now has sufficient power to play a 12 inch record.

While the HMV 103 can't compete with larger machines like the big HMV re-entrants, it is not a bad sounding machine for its size.

Thank you for all the comments. It is very nice to be able to save a gramophone, and that is also why I started this thread. The last months I have been extremely lucky in finding many very good looking machines, so when "the ugly duckling" turns up it can be very easy to dismiss it straight away. Luckily I was giving it a second thought, and also, the gramophones that are given a second chance, and been shown a higher level of devotion and time, are most often also the gramophones that in retrospective become more cherished in the long run, at least that is what I have experienced.( I guess this not only applies to gramophones...) The seller also admitted, that IF I had not bought it, it would have ended on the landfill the next few days.
I have re uploaded the "after" photos, with better pixel size, and also uploaded a photo of the No 4 Soundbox ( first version). Maybe not everyone has seen this early version, myself I like it a lot, with the letters beneath the glass on the front side, instead of the back side as on later versions. ( It has not yet been cleaned and polished when this photo is taken).
Thank you also for reminding me to glue the corners, it is actually already on my list, but I forgot to write it in here yesterday. Nice to see that we think in the same direction though:) The (long) clamps and Titebond wood glue is waiting for "us" ( me and the 103), in the garageroom tomorrow.

Products used for the wooden case so far:
Cleaning: Swarfega Original Classic Gel Hand Cleanser, non abrasive(red container with green lid)
Refinish: Howard's Restor A Finish ( Dark oak)
Polish: Howard's Feed-N-Wax

So here I am, 20 hours in total during the last 3 days, trying to save this lady. I call her a lady, since she craves both patience, hard work, love, and devotion, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.
I upload some more photos, also the challenges that are left to cope with. The motor was in good condition, but mind the small locking ring that keeps the gear inside the winding shaft. It is easy to get off when you have cleaned off the grease and dirt, but VERY difficult to put back on without the proper tools. I had two rather big long nose pliers only, and I spent almost one hour to get it back on, and had to widen the opening of the ring, something that I in retrospect do not think is ideal since it is very hard to return it to its former look.
The photos will speak for themselves mostly, I am happy about the outcome. Every screw and motor part have been cleaned and polished, and rust removed. Water had obviously in the past accessed the gramopohone under the lid, and one screw holding the horn was impossible to remove, so I left it on, doing my best to polish and clean it. The needle container was also full of rust and decomposed needles, again traces of water. The lid spring was very rusty too, and had lost much of its nickel surface. Since I do not yet have the tools to nickel plate, I cleaned it and also used a polisher, and the result wasn't too bad.

I am finished with the 103 for now, while waiting for a donor cabinet, and testing out wood filler receipts to use for the future. I still list the challenges I have for the future with this machine
Challenge 1: Nickel plating the manual brake and lid spring, (and missing hook to lift the motorboard)

Challenge 2: Missing veneer due to water leakage. I have tried to use wood filler, but I am not too happy about the result. The best option must be to find a donor,
and use oak veneer from this machine ( if someone else does not have another solution at hand)

Challenge 3: Missing and broken wood part on the back side of the hinge. Obviously the hinge had been problematic in the past, and eventually it had loosened from its position in the lid, and as a result torn apart a part of the wood on the back side of the cabinet, close to the hinge. I have tested several different wood fillers, but have not been happy with them, they are all too soft, including brands that are wellknown and often used among restorers in UK. There is a US brand that is much better to use, Durhams Wood Putty, a cheap powder that you mix yourself with water, but it is all white, so I will now try to add coloring to water to get a color of the wood filler that is close to what I need for HMV cabinets in the future. In addition, a donor cabinet is ( as I see it) a must, if you really need to make it as close to perfect as possible.

All this said, I think I will end this post with saying, "Mission accomplished"!

Products used, in addition to the ones listed above:
Liberon wood filler ( I will try Durham's next time, since I already have used it on a wooden horn with luck
Renessaince wax, (added as top layer over the Howard Feed-n_Wax...as a test:;) )

Apropos Durham's Wood Putty: Years ago I bought a big can of the powder and it has lasted me a very long time. I find it most effective when mixed, not with water, but with carpenter's wood glue (the yellow stuff). This makes a waterproof and very durable repair. I have not tried to apply stain, as all of my repairs were made on objects where appearance was not a factor (e.g., canoe paddles), so if you go this route I recommend a bit of experimentation before you use it on that beautiful cabinet that has emerged so far. Repairs with Durham + carpenter's glue should be considered permanent (irreversible). If need be, you can thin the mix with a couple or a few drops only of water, which will not affect the strength or the permanence of the repair.

An excellent result!

You did a great job... you brought a piece of junk back from the dead and learned a lot doing it... As far as using wood filler for missing wood, I am personally not a fan. I would rather cut out the broken area - clean it up with a wood chisel and then make pieces to insert and glue in from some donor cabinet. On another note, you got a great deal, just from the fact that your HMV #4 reproducer by itself is worth $200+ USD...