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Here is a work in progress, some real veneer issues from water damage i patched and fixed but not sure what to do about the missing bead on the bottom of the side.

That's a work of beauty, Jon. I look forward to your finished work.

Cheers,
Fran

Jon,

Can you make a pattern of the shape of the curve, then trace it on a piece of ¾" - 1" thick mahogany? Once laid out on the mahogany, you could cut the piece out on a band saw. The piece would have the correct shape & width, but would still be ¾" - 1" thick. While it's still too thick, but relatively strong, you could sand the bead radius on the piece, then carefully cut off the excess thickness and glue in place. While the panel you're gluing to has its own curvature, the bead molding should be thin enough to flex over the curve, (I hope). If not, you could incorporate the curvature into your new molding beforehand.

Very nice work!!!! Thanks for posting pictures. I am sure the end result will be awesome.

Looks like another great machine on the way to looking a lot better.

How do you sand these cabinets, and do you think it must be chemically stripped too? I have never done a Victrola cabinet like this but I have a regular Victrola that needs a re-finishing one day.

how do you sand the really hard to reach places. I am not sure how to finish sanding the corners of my brunswick 210....

Glad to see that you are saving a VV-XVIII that was in rough shape. And not turning a very nice original specimen into a fantasy piece.

JerryVan wrote:Jon,

Can you make a pattern of the shape of the curve, then trace it on a piece of ¾" - 1" thick mahogany? Once laid out on the mahogany, you could cut the piece out on a band saw. The piece would have the correct shape & width, but would still be ¾" - 1" thick. While it's still too thick, but relatively strong, you could sand the bead radius on the piece, then carefully cut off the excess thickness and glue in place. While the panel you're gluing to has its own curvature, the bead molding should be thin enough to flex over the curve, (I hope). If not, you could incorporate the curvature into your new molding beforehand.

Yea, i thought of doing that and may try it. I am also thinking of using some silicone mold putty i used recently for the first time to copy a piece of missing trim on an 1885 cuckoo clock i restored, the carving on the left under the roof is a copy of the right side. Works great for hard to find carvings or trim

VanEpsFan1914 wrote:Looks like another great machine on the way to looking a lot better.

How do you sand these cabinets, and do you think it must be chemically stripped too? I have never done a Victrola cabinet like this but I have a regular Victrola that needs a re-finishing one day.

I chemically strip the clear coat first (2-3 times), then use two different power sanders (flat-square and round on slow speed) for the flat or semi flat areas using 120 first then 220. Then hand sanding for all the rest. The carvings take some time but eventually get there. For some intricate carvings that couldn't be sanded like in 17s, i chemically strip several times until all the finish is removed then after dry, brush with a fine brass wire brush. The sanding is really an art and takes practice especially with power, you can easily mess up by sanding thru the veneer if you don't do it right and with the right pressure. Practice restoring on something without value first if you don't have experience with a sander or do it all by hand using a sanding block on the flat areas. Hope this helps. One of these days i will make a video of my procedures and steps, i have it down pretty good at this point.

Skihawx wrote:Glad to see that you are saving a VV-XVIII that was in rough shape. And not turning a very nice original specimen into a fantasy piece.

Yea, it kills me to see them as liquor cabinet or something.