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Needing an oddball screw-- I know we all have jars of old screws. I need a 12-20 screw that's about ½" long for a project piece. Anyone able to help??

Thanks-
Brad Abell

outune wrote:Needing an oddball screw-- I know we all have jars of old screws. I need a 12-20 screw that's about ½" long for a project piece. Anyone able to help??

Thanks-
Brad Abell

What style head? (Not that I have a selection to choose from...)

Hi Jerry- Just a round head, slotted.

Brad

Brad,

I might have some.

In S.S., they may be longer though, can you cut a ¾ or 1 incher down ?

Kind regards, Bob

Yes- I can cut it shorter. Is there a way to "blue" the Stainless screws?

Thanks for the help.

Brad

Sorry, mine are 12-24

Thanks for looking- Yes- The 12-20 is an older screw that apparently is no longer made. I am trying to fix up an old woodworker's plane that belonged to my dad. One of the handle screws is missing. From what I gather, Stanley tools used the 12-20 screws.

Maybe I can find a tool collector forum and come up with one there.

Thanks again-

Brad Abell

A lot of pre-1930 cars and tools require that size.
Stanley planes recommend 7/32-20 as a substitute (Both types work, the difference between #12-20 and 7/32-20 is a mere 0,002″).

If you have a good bit of metal to work with that is not pot metal you can always retap the hole.

Kurt M
Tacoma

Thanks Kurt-- I wasn't aware that the 7/32-20 would work- Now to look for one of those. I'd prefer not to re-tap it. It's a short sleeve that the screw fits in-- I wouldn't want to take a chance on cracking it.

Thanks for the info!

Brad

I would really try running a 12-20, (or 7/32-20), die over a 12-24 screw. The first few threads should end up being usable, but that sounds like all you'd need anyway. I'm assuming this is the screw that goes through the bottom tongue of the handle and not the long stud going all the way through. If so, it doesn't see a lot of stress or force and a re-threaded 12-24 screw should work just fine. Another option may be to buy a long 12-24 screw that isn't threaded all the way up. Cut off what length you don't need, which would include all the 12-24 threaded area, and run the 12-20 over the unthreaded area. (Though most screws like that are a smaller diameter between the threads and the head. Might need to actually buy a larger screw just to get the proper diameter where you need to thread it.)

If my shop weren't currently disassembled to move it all, I'd make you one from scratch. Timing is everything!