Edison standard E restoration
Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 8:32 pm
I would like to share a project I recently finished up. Here is a machine I got from VanEpsFan1914 that I decided to repaint and refinish myself. Since it is one of my favorites, I decided to wait a bit until I knew I could get it right, so I decided to tackle other projects before this one.
For the case, I used Timber mates Black water based grain filler. The product works fine, but I think next time I will try using sanding sealer or a very thin cut of shellac on the wood before scraping the filler on, because the water base of the wood filler seeped into the wood staining it black, requiring a fair bit of sanding to fix. For the stain I used Mohawk Van-Dyke brown penetrating stain. This stain is the perfect color and will have no problem penetrating into the wood. The difficult thing about this stain is applying it perfectly even and avoiding dark overlaps. To get it more even I apply the stain in straight lines and overlapping the last pass until the whole cabinet is stained. After letting it dry for a bit, I wipe the stained cabinet down with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Doing this picks up some stain, but leaves the color more even.
I like the process of wiping shellac layers on with a pad, but the problem is that the penetrating stain gets wiped off with the denatured alcohol used to dissolve the shellac , So I like to use Zinsser spray shellac. After spraying a few coats, I then start applying the shellac by hand. A bit of sanding with a high grit of sandpaper before doing so helps to get rid of the orange peel texture caused by the spray can. After getting a relatively smooth Finish I apply the decal, wait a full day, spray over it, then smooth the finish out on the front again. After the shellac is fully cured, I french polish the cabinet using oil and denatured alcohol in the shellac pad.
For the bedplate, I first use etching primer that I wet sand making sure to fill any pitting before painting. I then apply multiple coats of Rust-oleum High performance black enamel. I wet sand with 1500 grit sandpaper then polish with McGuire's scratch X (not X2). The decals and shellac are the same process on the bedplate as on the case.
Now I did not do everything myself, Charles (VanEpsFan1914) got all of the repro part necessary, and also located the proper blue flower horn after finding the the standard. The model N reproducer was sent to Wyatt for proper maintenance. Overall, this is the best result from a restoration so far. I would like to know if anyone has suggestions for future restorations, or what you guys do differently.
Thanks
Martin
For the case, I used Timber mates Black water based grain filler. The product works fine, but I think next time I will try using sanding sealer or a very thin cut of shellac on the wood before scraping the filler on, because the water base of the wood filler seeped into the wood staining it black, requiring a fair bit of sanding to fix. For the stain I used Mohawk Van-Dyke brown penetrating stain. This stain is the perfect color and will have no problem penetrating into the wood. The difficult thing about this stain is applying it perfectly even and avoiding dark overlaps. To get it more even I apply the stain in straight lines and overlapping the last pass until the whole cabinet is stained. After letting it dry for a bit, I wipe the stained cabinet down with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Doing this picks up some stain, but leaves the color more even.
I like the process of wiping shellac layers on with a pad, but the problem is that the penetrating stain gets wiped off with the denatured alcohol used to dissolve the shellac , So I like to use Zinsser spray shellac. After spraying a few coats, I then start applying the shellac by hand. A bit of sanding with a high grit of sandpaper before doing so helps to get rid of the orange peel texture caused by the spray can. After getting a relatively smooth Finish I apply the decal, wait a full day, spray over it, then smooth the finish out on the front again. After the shellac is fully cured, I french polish the cabinet using oil and denatured alcohol in the shellac pad.
For the bedplate, I first use etching primer that I wet sand making sure to fill any pitting before painting. I then apply multiple coats of Rust-oleum High performance black enamel. I wet sand with 1500 grit sandpaper then polish with McGuire's scratch X (not X2). The decals and shellac are the same process on the bedplate as on the case.
Now I did not do everything myself, Charles (VanEpsFan1914) got all of the repro part necessary, and also located the proper blue flower horn after finding the the standard. The model N reproducer was sent to Wyatt for proper maintenance. Overall, this is the best result from a restoration so far. I would like to know if anyone has suggestions for future restorations, or what you guys do differently.
Thanks
Martin