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Here’s some before and after pics so far... I applied the decal today, so when it’s completely dry I will finish applying shellac to the case. I have to order a new belt, and I sent the Model R to Wyatt for repairs

One thing I found odd about the machine... is that it has the divot for the crane assembly. But the hole wasn’t cut for the piece to slide into the case.

David

Looks nice. Sometimes on the bottom of the case the drill very small holes to spot it. Tom

Just to clarify, your Home is a Model B.

George P.

phonogfp wrote:Just to clarify, your Home is a Model B.

George P.

Oh ... Thanks George!

David

You bet. Keep up the good work - -

George P.

I got the belt and reproducer back from Wyatt and I’ve been trying to get it to run when it’s all put together. The customer came to me with a model R reproducer, which is noticeably heavier than a model H or C; and he is using a 14” witches hat horn.

The biggest problem... is that I cannot get it to run when the belt is attached to the pulley for the top works. The motor seems to be running really well on its own (it just ran for 18 minutes on a full wind). Maybe I didn’t put the top works back on correctly? I have been trying to make little adjustments to make it run better, and nothing seems to be helping. I got it to briefly play a 4 min record while holding my searchlight horn. It sounds VERY good (I’ll attach the video).

Any suggestions on what to do?

David

Lots of potential causes for this, in no particular order:
1) belt is too tight
2) belt tensioner is gummed up and not turning
3) half nut is putting too much pressure on feed screw
4) feed screw has too little or too much lubricant - use 1-2 drops of light sewing machine oil, that's it!
5) weak spring
6) 2/4 gearing needs oil

There may be more... Good luck!

52089 wrote: Tue Jan 26, 2021 11:03 pm Lots of potential causes for this, in no particular order:
1) belt is too tight
2) belt tensioner is gummed up and not turning
3) half nut is putting too much pressure on feed screw
4) feed screw has too little or too much lubricant - use 1-2 drops of light sewing machine oil, that's it!
5) weak spring
6) 2/4 gearing needs oil

There may be more... Good luck!

The belt does not seem to be too tight.
I made many little adjustments to the feedscrew to make it sit exactly as it is supposed to.
I put one drop of sewing machine oil on it... maybe I should clean it off again and start over.
The spring is my main concern... but I will continue to work on it.
I didn't oil the 2/4 gearing though.... where do you put oil in the gearing?

David

I have mentioned this before, but I hope it will not be out of order to do so again: – My Home B, identical to David's, would never run steadily with the feed-screw engaged until I smeared a little oil along the straight-edge. I had already cleared the surface corrosion from the straight-edge and the carriage had seemed to move freely along it, but it was only the final touch of lubricant that solved the problem. My apologies to David, though, if it turns out that he has already tried this.

Oliver Mundy.

Good luck getting the friction out of the drivetrain.

Springs go weak and I hope that's not what happened, though it may be why you don't quite have enough torque. Another trick that can help: get some "Candle stickum" (a product to hold candles in their sticks--it's sold in a small tin) and use that as a dressing on the pulleys. Don't smear it on there, but get your finger barely tacky and then make the pulleys just vaguely adhesive--so very little you'd almost doubt it was there. This often helps.

Also the belt tensioner wheel can be sticking on the axle or on its arm and that causes more load on the drivetrain.