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I am coming down the home stretch on my first Victrola rebuild and I have a question on the gaskets that hold the mica diaphragm in place on the reproducer.

It seems that all the rebuild instructions I have seen use two gaskets, one on each side of the diaphragm, but the original (or what was in it when I got it) is a one-piece, U-shaped gasket. It is remarkably supple, and I am inclined to reuse it.

So, the question is, which is original, and which is better?

Thanks

Dale H

The U-shaped gasket is original style. Unless it's still like new, the new one is better. While the old one is still supple, as you say, does it also still compress, such that it will lightly "clamp" and seal the diaphragm when you reassemble the reproducer?

Good point. I will have to check.

Thanks for the reply.

Dale H

The good thing is to place the diaphragm carefully between two rings made of supple gasket tubing of adequate thickness, well matched so they don't exert but the lightest pressure on the diaphragm edge, only what's needed for airtightness. The diaphragm must not touch the soundbox, having a small uniform gap all around the edge. The back of the soundbox must be screwed, but better if you don't screw it fully, just as needed to keep airtight but no more. Easy to check blowing softly by the back neck. Once screwed, and as the screws are somewhat loose, you must fix them adding a drop of Elmer's glue around the screw heads, to fix them to the back. You'll find this way that the diaphragm vibrates very freely, and effective plunge area is large, the diaphragm being a very effective air pump, which improves the bass noticeably. Maybe some trial and error is needed, adjusting the pressure with the back screws before fixing them with the glue. Try soft recordings and also loud recordings, so you can find the right pressure with no rattling and full sound. Sometimes you'll see a gap between the soundbox back and the body; this doesn't mind if you've checked that the soundbox is airtight.
Of course, this method departs from the original specification, which uses the purposely made special rubber gasket, and the back of the soundbox must be screwed down completely.

Thank you for the detailed and well thought out reply, Inigo.

This raises a question which have not really resolved in my own mind, which is, do I want to restore this machine to as close to original as possible, or do I want to get the best performance possible?

I am leaning toward original. If I want the best performance, I just listen to my CD,s.

Dale H

I'd go with the new gaskets instead. This should keep it original AND running in tip-top performance. Brian Parlier has correct gaskets at The Phonograph Shop. Because of course he does; he has everything. You can't beat the price either.

https://thephonographshop.com/products/ ... tor-gasket

In case you're scrupulous as I am, keep the original soundbox restored to specification. Then get another soundbox of the same model, and do the modifications on that one. You'll find yourself continuously switching soundboxes and doing comparisons
In my only acoustic tabletop gramophone with exhibition soundbox, the European equivalent of the Victrola VI, I have THREE exhibition soundboxes: the original one plus two replacements for experimentation!

VEP - I didn't know anyone reproduced the original style gaskets. I will have to look into that.

Inigo - Now that is a plan. I will refurbish the original sound box to specs, then experiment on others. I already have two more.

Dale H

In my experiments, I managed to adjust a modified exhibition so it plays electrical recordings without problems... Watch this:
https://youtu.be/4tVigBi43P4
and this:
https://youtu.be/gEvTnv9_qfI