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Hello,

I'm trying to identify a wood glue that would not dissolve when contacted by non pumice Goop?
I have a cabinet that has 2 slivers of wood that need to be glued back, but also need the goop treatment very badly.
It is one of the cabinets that let a Victor 9 machine be slid in from the rear and the back moulding is closed on the cabinet to enclose the machines base. All very nice oak under all that grunge. Not fumed oak - just very filthy dirty. The slivers are from the top of one of the machine encapsulating side mouldings. The slivers are too delicate to clean on their own so one way or another they have to go back on the moulding. Their absence sticks out like a sore thumb.
I've cleaned as much of the woodwork as I can

Thanks !

I’ve used Gojo and goop and never really had an issue using wood glue.
I have in the past with small slivers of wood used a 2 part mix epoxy and then delicately with such a small amount re-attached the slivers. I don’t believe the Gojo or goop would react to the epoxy. I’ve used EP1086
I’m sure there are more experienced members here with a better answer

I use Titebond III and never have had any issues. The bond is stronger than the wood, but cleans up with water, (before curing). It’s more forgiving than epoxy.

I can't imagine you are ever going to have the cabinet Gooped long enough to dissolve a good wood glue. It's not like it needs to soak for hours.

Glue the slivers first, allow the glue to fully cure, (24 hours), then Goop it up.

Thank you one and all for the great suggestions. I had completely forgotten about Titebond even though I used it a lot in the past. That is the way to go.

Cordially !!

Django wrote: Tue Jan 17, 2023 3:41 pm I use Titebond III and never have had any issues. The bond is stronger than the wood, but cleans up with water, (before curing). It’s more forgiving than epoxy.

And not reversible nor conservation grade. Hide glue is a far more responsible wood adhesive for use in a restoration.

Takes some practice to get the balance of glue to water right _ shelf life seems a problem in its crystal form when purchased.
That's my experience with it anyway.

The advantages are, that's what was used in the first place _ heat activated so using a fresh batch will be compatible with what's there.

When mixed properly it just irons on and sets, almost like contact cement, but unlike contact cement, if one gets it wrong, it can simply be heated again for adjustment.
I used bakers parchment paper between the iron and the job _ it keeps things from sticking to the iron _ works very well.
If the mix is right, it irons on and sets right away _ no need for clamps, at least that's what I found.

I tried hide glue restoring this cherry davenport and it worked well for a small veneering job, but was a little labour intensive, so not particle for the shop I was working for at the time.

Here it is, the frame is a cross-lap joint with veneer at a 45 degree miter, it should have had leather on it, but it was meant for my Mother, so she had me put the brocade on where there should have been leather.
It was painted with black, then white and finally this awful pink, and the veneer was pretty much gone from many decades of abuse.