The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

Hello all:
This question could be considered off-topic, but I'm asking your opinion about metal repairs and glues used to do them.
I tried a repair on an phono changer motor mount assembly with JB Weld, and it held for awhile, then separated. I was trying to secure a couple hex nuts to the pot metal housing. Here's a picture of what I'm trying to reconstruct: Do you have a favorite epoxy or other that works better than JB Weld? It'd be handy if it's something the chain stores stock, but not critical. Thanks.
Bob

About 10 years ago, I tried almost every epoxy I could get my hands on for a non-phono plastic-to-glass application, and JB Weld was the only thing that held. The original is stronger than JB Kwik, IMHO. Make sure your parts are clean as per the instructions and give it a good long time to cure. The ratio of epoxy to hardener can be a factor as well. They should provide a guide to the right "shade" of gray. Good luck!

I dont know if this would be of any use.

http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html

gramophoneshane wrote:I dont know if this would be of any use.

http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html

Thanks, Shane, for the link to this interesting website. I hadn't considered anything using heat and flux! Maybe a professional metal worker could manage this for me.

Any other thoughts?
Bob

There is also SolderIt for Pot Metal. It also needs some heat though. You can get it at amazon.com and other web sites.
http://www.amazon.com/Global-Industrial ... 593&sr=8-2
May be somewhere in between JB Weld and Muggyweld strength wise?
Andreas

I would recommend Devcon Plastic Steel liquid B 10210. Best price I could find was here:

http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/ ... t=Facility

It's pricey, but it will hold ANYTHING. It can also be machined for reproducing parts.

Whatever epoxy you choose, in addition to the area being clean as mentioned earlier, it is also helpful to rough up the area too. That gives the epoxy something to grip to.