The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

AmberolaAndy wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 1:03 pm Ok, I also made this thread at the APS forum just in case these site acts like me like I did in preschool and constantly timing out! this is the first time I've even done something like this.
1. is wheel bearing grease a good grease to grease the BBs and above it? Or will I have to go to Ace Hardware or order something else online?

2. in the photo below, there are 3 parts I have taken a photo of, they all go together correct? Will that pin stay in the hole by friction or was it originally soldered in and I will have to solder or JB weld it in place?

3. In another photo below, I have the bottom of the original tonearm support and the 3D printed replacement, (ignore the bananas in the background) I noticed the original has smaller screw holes and bumps to hold the bracket in place, the 3D printed one does not. How do I make sure this 3D printed replacement is secure to the base?

Thank you guys! Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Because I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

JerryVan wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 2:08 pm

AmberolaAndy wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 1:03 pm Ok, I also made this thread at the APS forum just in case these site acts like me like I did in preschool and constantly timing out! this is the first time I've even done something like this.
1. is wheel bearing grease a good grease to grease the BBs and above it? Or will I have to go to Ace Hardware or order something else online?

2. in the photo below, there are 3 parts I have taken a photo of, they all go together correct? Will that pin stay in the hole by friction or was it originally soldered in and I will have to solder or JB weld it in place?

3. In another photo below, I have the bottom of the original tonearm support and the 3D printed replacement, (ignore the bananas in the background) I noticed the original has smaller screw holes and bumps to hold the bracket in place, the 3D printed one does not. How do I make sure this 3D printed replacement is secure to the base?

Thank you guys! Your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Because I will also be doing the same to a VV 2-55 (Thankfully pre disassembled but I have concerns about getting the riveted parts together.)

1. Yes, the wheel bearing grease would be fine.
2. It was originally soldered in place. JB Weld might work fine if you clean the area really well before using it.
3. Use the original screws. If the screw holes are too big for the screw heads, then add some washers under the screws. Do NOT over tighten those screws! The 3D printed plastic will not be near as strong as the original diecast was.

AmberolaAndy wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 2:13 pm
OK. I tapped the bits together. now I should put the JB weld around the pin and in the gap between the two pieces and camp the piece until it dries to secure it to the tonearm?

JerryVan wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 5:41 pm

AmberolaAndy wrote: Thu Jul 31, 2025 2:13 pm
OK. I tapped the bits together. now I should put the JB weld around the pin and in the gap between the two pieces and camp the piece until it dries to secure it to the tonearm?

Yes, I believe that should do it for you. You may be better off, however, by just gluing the pin in place and not the ring. I really wish the ring piece was not so bent up.

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VanEpsFan1914 wrote: Fri Aug 01, 2025 11:19 am Andy, is that a plastic 3d-printed bracket?
You may want to use plastic-compatible grease such as LaBelle grease sold for model train hobbyists. Over time, standard greases can break down plastic, and Victrolas tend to sit around for years on end.

3d printing a spare is a great idea, but different materials have different tolerances for particular lubrications. Good luck!