The Talking Machine Forum — For All Antique Phonographs & Recordings

After five months of desperately trying to get my fireside phonograph to run properly and have had no ounce of luck? I have gone through four leather belts. Three of which I bought off eBay, and the last from the phonograph shop that I messed up trying to flatten the two ends so it makes a smooth belt. Damaged that and cut it even shorter. On belt i had too long, try to fix it and mad a bump in the belt, the next was too small and would not pull the mandrel the last, just kept slipping off, while the lid was open. The only thing that I was able to get to work was a wide rubber band. Which I know is not ideal, or original, but I am out of options and George Valoma is in Florida.

Paul

Hi Paul,
Have you looked at Wyatt's post on how to make a belt. Heck if I can do it anyone can!
Abe

need4art wrote: Sat Nov 08, 2025 9:15 pm Hi Paul,
Have you looked at Wyatt's post on how to make a belt. Heck if I can do it anyone can!
Abe

I have not seen Wyatt’s post, but I have seen Dyslexic Genius Hurts video and I still messed up! The problem I have is scraping off enough leather without cutting the piece off, so I can glue the two ends together.

Paul, Go to a Dollar Store or Dollar General and get a pack of 5 Bic single edge razors. I have used Bic razors for nearly 40 years to make the splice in leather belting for all of my phonographs that require a leather belt. Use the Bic razor along with a flat piece of board and carefully shave about ½ inch of one end of the belt so that it's tapered nicely. Then run the belt material through the pulleys drawing it snug but not too snug. Mark the belting where the matching splice you made will be covered by ½ inch and shave that end of the belt (on the opposite side of your first shaved end). Get some good wood glue and with your pliers pinch the spliced area together assuring the spliced area is in alignment with the belting material. Your splice should be just about the same thickness as the belt itself if you've made the splice correctly. Wait a few minutes for the glue to adhere. Install the belt and it should work for you. And make certain that your pulleys are in near perfect alignment.

I've tried using an Exacto knife and also a razor blade to make the taper ends on leather belting and it doesn't work as well as shaving the ends with a Bic single edge razor. But use whatever you're comfortable with. A rubber band will create a Wow effect during play.

Doug

Thank you Doug!

The other issue I have been having is with the belt tensioner arm? I’m not sure, but I thought it was suppose to move a bit more freely? I tried oiling it, but that, didn’t seem to work. It’s seems that it is preventing the belt from moving properly.

Soak the tensioner in WD-40 and spin the cylinder until it is free spinning.

You’re very welcome, Paul. The belt tensioner pulley needs to be free of debris and rotate very freely to be effective.

But, to be honest, I have removed this pulley from most of my own cylinder phonographs. It can sometimes introduce some pitch and speed variation if not operating perfectly. But that’s me.

I’m a real stickler with obtaining natural sound from my phonographs. The phonographs that I HAVE left the belt tensioner pulley installed are early ones like my Columbia type N’s. I have three of them and the belt tensioner pulley seems to help provide smooth, natural sound since all Columbia type N’s use a leather clad gear (as does the type BC) and the gear often has slightly worn teeth. The belt tensioner pulley helps remove some of the gear teeth distortion transferred to the mandrel pulley. With just about all other phonographs in my collection I prefer direct belt contact from drive pulley to driven pulley. Again, that’s me though.

Good luck!

Doug

I've had good luck using sandpaper to taper the ends. Light pressure with your finger and a few passes over the sandpaper lying flat on the workbench - no chance of accidently cutting it too short.

KC Kent wrote: Sun Nov 09, 2025 12:37 pm I've had good luck using sandpaper to taper the ends. Light pressure with your finger and a few passes over the sandpaper lying flat on the workbench - no chance of accidently cutting it too short.

Never thought of that?