Edison duncan stop reproducer

[Tpapp54321]

On my edison c-250 the special duncan stop reproducer was replaced with a standard and the wire was ripped out at one point. So my question is can I somehow alter the standard reproducer for it to work with the duncan stop?
-Tom

[Valecnik]

I don't think so, at least not for less than the cost of a correct replacement. I think you need to find the correct reproducer. Maybe others can comment.

[estott]

You might be able to do it by taking the hinge block apart and inserting a thin later if an insulating material, then you'd need to drill a hole in the weight for the wire. It could be doable but a little chancy.

[VintageTechnologies]

The Duncan stop is interesting, but in my limited experience with one, it was not too reliable. I can see that reliability may have been a factor why they were discontinued; I am sure the mechanical stop was cheaper to manufacture as well.

A friend of mine has a William & Mary upright that came with one. A 1.5 volt dry cell battery just like the original did not work too well despite our efforts to clean all the electrical contacts. A 6 volt battery worked better, but the Duncan was still fussy.

[Tpapp54321]

I think I'm just going to wait to come across one or wait to hunt one down. Were the duncan stop reproducers stamped with a specific serial number just like how dances were stamped with LD? And could someone post a picture of where the hole for the wire is? Much appreciated.
-Tom

[pughphonos]

Tom, I have one of those Duncan stop reproducers with the proper hole at the tapered end for the wire connection. It is a gold plated one that someone did a poor polishing job on, so it now looks more orange than anything. But if you'd want to exchange one of your reproducers for it, I'm game. I don't have the Duncan set-up and don't desire to have it. Just take out and retain your current diaphragm and stylus, if you can; I'd do the same. PM me if interested.

Ralph

[Edisone]

I swapped just the swivel block (or hinge block, whatever it's called) from my dead repro to whichever new repro I wanted to use - even the Edisonic. The Duncan wire plugs into a hole on the block, not the weight itself. Note that you need both the gold & black parts in the photo, because the screw holes in that black piece are also insulated. You don't need the insulation on the limit loop if you put the repro down on the record before releasing the brake; for about 10 years, I thought it was supposed to work that way (and it works fine) !

I used a 6volt lantern cell (same one) for about 12 years & then switched to several D cells in parallel. My Duncan stop works every time; maybe I have the only reliable one in the world! They also act as a sort of error detecting device: if the pin touches either the loop or the repro's body during play, the machine shuts off & prevents further groove damage.

ps - http://forum.talkingmachine.info/viewto ... +automatic - the source of photo below.

[pughphonos]

I swapped just the swivel block (or hinge block, whatever it's called) from my dead repro to whichever new repro I wanted to use - even the Edisonic. The Duncan wire plugs into a hole on the block, not the weight itself. Note that you need both the gold & black parts in the photo, because the screw holes in that black piece are also insulated.

I'm attempting to make this switch with Tom; I have one of those Duncan reproducers with swivel block as you describe. But I can't get the black piece removed from the reproducer; it's stuck. I assume it should just unscrew. I've used pliers to try to hold the block, but it's hard getting the head of a screwdriver into the screw on top as the top part of the reproducer gets in the way. Edisone, unless you have some suggestions, it looks like the only way I can trade with Tom is to trade reproducers.

Ralph

[Edisone]

I swapped just the swivel block (or hinge block, whatever it's called) from my dead repro to whichever new repro I wanted to use - even the Edisonic. The Duncan wire plugs into a hole on the block, not the weight itself. Note that you need both the gold & black parts in the photo, because the screw holes in that black piece are also insulated.

I'm attempting to make this switch with Tom; I have one of those Duncan reproducers with swivel block as you describe. But I can't get the black piece removed from the reproducer; it's stuck. I assume it should just unscrew. I've used pliers to try to hold the block, but it's hard getting the head of a screwdriver into the screw on top as the top part of the reproducer gets in the way. Edisone, unless you have some suggestions, it looks like the only way I can trade with Tom is to trade reproducers.

Ralph

Prolly rusted solidly together! Yes, it should unscrew but it's been 30 years (gack) since I took mine apart the first time & I don't remember how. It was a struggle, I do remember that much. I may have bent a screwdriver to fit in that space, then held the block in a bench vise so I could use both hands on the screwdriver. Penetrating oil first, too.

Maybe better off to trade the while thing, rather than mangle. Nice of you to do that for Tom, btw.

[pughphonos]

Prolly rusted solidly together! Yes, it should unscrew but it's been 30 years (gack) since I took mine apart the first time & I don't remember how. It was a struggle, I do remember that much. I may have bent a screwdriver to fit in that space, then held the block in a bench vise so I could use both hands on the screwdriver. Penetrating oil first, too.

Maybe better off to trade the while thing, rather than mangle. Nice of you to do that for Tom, btw.

Hey, we Edison peeps gotta stick together.